Elevation: 2,210 ft
GPS: 35.202, -82.277 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,373 total · 1,713/month
Shared By: Jonathan Gerst on Jan 7, 2020
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

Description

Land owner: Town of Tryon, NC

Stewards: Park establishment and improvement projects are due to assistance provided by the Town of Tryon, the Carolina Climber's Coalition and Blue Ridge Adventure Guides, a Tryon-based not for profit outdoor adventure and service club.  Contact CCC or BRAG to key into upcoming trail work days and other fun stuff!

Geology: biotite augen gneiss that is very hard in some locations and very brittle in others.

Orientation: W & SW-facing (sunny) cliffs with some tree canopy shade.  The cliff is also located within the Blue Ridge Escarpment isotherm with milder winters and summers.   Centrally located (~1-hr drive) to Asheville, NC and Greenville/Spartanburg, SC.

Routes: As of March 2020, there are 33 established routes and potential for 40 or so more. Trad, mixed, and sport 5.7 to 5.11. Many over-hanging jug halls, but some cracks and slab too. Route development only just began in early 2019 when Tryon, NC approved establishment of a climbing park on the town's property. Surprisingly the old-timers in the area were unaware of the climbing potential until a Tryon geologist and climber stumbled upon it in late 2018. Check the Climbing Management Plan posted on the CCC's website for route development guidelines.

Hazards: Don't haphazardly throw anything off the cliff, wear a helmet, and announce rock fall! All the newly established routes may still break a hold or two, and rock fall hazards are very high in undeveloped areas. Bears, scorpions, snakes, bats, poison ivy, and briars have all been spotted at the cliffs. Please respect the wildlife, pack out your trash, and keep this area pristine. Climber's paths are steep, so don't slip off the cliff (trail construction underway in 2020). Don't piss off the gun toting neighbors and moonshiners. Wear orange in hunting season. St Luke's hospital and an urgent care facility are located in nearby Columbus, NC.

Scenery: The crag has beautiful views of Hogback Mtn Summit (SC's 2nd tallest peak) and onward to SC's piedmont area (i.e. Greer).

Nearby amenities: Downtown Tryon offers restaurants, bars, and shopping. Saluda and Landrum are another 20 minutes from Tryon along 176.

Getting There

Hogback Mountain Road passes through a very curvy residential area with abundant small children, elderly, and disabled.  Please drive slowly (speed limit is 25 MPH) and enjoy the view.

Parking is limited so please carpool, and do not park on private property (e.g., Mountain Waters Inc) property!

Due to close proximity of homes to parking locations, please do not loiter and keep quiet until you’re below the cliff.

Avoid actions (e.g., littering, noise) that could compromise access to this awesome resource.

There are two separate cliff areas with a small parking area for each cliff located about 4 miles west of Tryon's downtown. The cliffs are accessed by walking south and downhill from the parking areas. Safe and sustainable trail construction is currently underway as of January 2020, but climber's foot paths are visible.

Melrose East Cliff: Parking is on DOT easement & Town of Tryon property at an enlarged shoulder on the south side of the road (3 car capacity).  The pin for the Melrose Climbing Park area on Mountain Project is positioned at the East cliff parking area.

Melrose West Cliff: Parking is DOT easement (30-ft from centerline of the road) immediately south of the Mountain Waters Inc. private property at 3450 Hogback Mtn Rd.  Park diagonal or perpendicular to road (not parallel).  DO NOT BLOCK ACCESS TO THE MOUNTAIN WATERS INC PROPERTY, AND DO NOT PARK BEYOND THE MARKED DOT EASEMENT!!!

41 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Melrose Mtn. Climbing Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Music Seeping Through
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Mamma’s Back Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
See Line Woman
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Pizza Pearl
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Morris' Arete
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Feelin' Good
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Frightful Beginnings
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Bee's Tongue
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Cabin Fever
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
GBH Tootaledge
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Bear Knuckles
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
U.F.F. (Unidentified Flying Fish)
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Monkey Knee Bars
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
J's Junction
Sport, TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Something To BRAG About
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Music Seeping Through W Cliff - Main
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Mamma’s Back Crack W Cliff - Main
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
See Line Woman W Cliff - Main
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Pizza Pearl W Cliff - Main
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Morris' Arete W Cliff - Main
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Feelin' Good W Cliff - Main
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Frightful Beginnings E Cliff
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Bee's Tongue W Cliff - Main
 21
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cabin Fever W Cliff - Main
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
GBH Tootaledge W Cliff - Mini
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Bear Knuckles E Cliff
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
U.F.F. (Unidentified Flying… E Cliff
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Monkey Knee Bars W Cliff - Main
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
J's Junction W Cliff - Main
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Something To BRAG About W Cliff - Main
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Melrose Mtn. Climbing Park »

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