Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in The Headwall
|
Animist S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
|
Blood Runs Thicker S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Cameltoe S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Class 3 Gulley S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a PG13 |
|
|
Curious George S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Donamatrix S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
Doug’s Dandy (Lower) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 X |
|
|
George Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c X |
|
|
Ghastly Rubberfat S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Headwall Route S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Rain of Terror S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Rappel Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
|
|
Sleazy Street S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Spice Box S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Walk Up, The S 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
| Type: | Sport, 103 ft (31 m) |
| GPS: | 33.51992, -111.97037 |
| FA: | Douglas Lilly (Jan 2026) |
| Page Views: | 173 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Douglas Lilly on Jan 18, 2026 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Standing on top of the beginning of the George Route, just past the first ramps corner. An old hanger-less & cap-screw-less “Drop In Bolt”, along with two shallow drill holes were found. It was evident that the drop in bolt without a hanger, was protection for the top out of the first exposed section of the George Route. While the two drill holes, which were several feet ahead of the drop-in bolt, appeared as though they were a bailed anchor station. Someone at some point in time was going to make an anchor for a climb below, but never did… After climbing a couple lines to the right of the start of the start of the George Route, this route finally appeared. Along the various paths leading to the George Route, several other Cap-Screw-Less “Drop in bolts” can be found; with one following along this route near the cave.
This route is about 20’ to the left of “Curious George” and about 45’ to the right of the “George Route”. Start by a large granite block below a couple plants and work your way up the wall. An easy 4th/5th class scramble leads to more vertical terrain. Use an extended draw on bolt 3/4. The rope drag is minimal. At one point in the climb, you can lead into a cave if you choose! The route has small runouts when it gets easy. There is also a small ledge on an oddly flat boulder, after bolt 6, that makes for an excellent rest & lookout point. This is found climbers left at/before the bolt. Pebbles rain down from above so please wear a helmet!
Along the way up is a variety of sprouts, shrubs, succulents, cacti, mosses, and fungi! Respect the plants & wildlife along the way. The sounds of people echo from below, owls hoot from nest nearby, and the birds songs are a constant in the air. This mountain is alive!
Location
Scramble over from the climbers trail past the start of the George route along a ledge to find the start. The climb follows left of a cave that is about 15’ left from “Curious George”. The route is Directly across the wash from Ghastly, and several meters to the right of the “George Route’s” start.
Protection
This Route is EXACTLY 32 meters.
A 70 meter rope works best here as with Curious George on the Right. An old 60 meter rope will likely run short, right at the end.
(8) 1/2”x4” SS Powers Wedge Bolts lead to a 3 bolt anchor station. (2) Wave Bolts have Stainless Lower-Off Beiners with chain connecting them; and a Single SS Wedge bolt above the two Wave Bolts, has an Aluminum (15KN) SMC Rappel Ring on it. DO NOT TOP ROPE ON THE SS LOWER OFF CARABINERS!!
•If rappelling this route; make sure to thread the rope through the rappel ring, to the ropes middle point. With your rope now double stranded, clip the right and left Lower-Off Beiners with the right and left side of your rope. Attach your rappel device below, and low off the route having 2 extra bolts to backup your rappel!
1 Comment