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Arizona
> Central Arizona
> *Phoenix Areas
> McDowell Mountains
> Sven Towers
> Sven Tower 3
Brain
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
Routes in Sven Tower 3
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Baby Back T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Backbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cracked Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dermatome T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ergone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Left Rib S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Plaque Attack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Right Rib T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shark Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shark Tooth T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spare Rib T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spinal Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Spinal Cracker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Spinal Nerve T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Spinal Tap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Undercling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walk-the-Plank T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 33.68722, -111.7946 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 74 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | brooks swigart on Dec 19, 2025 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Access:
Details
The only access issue for this area is the seasonal closure of routes on the north side of Tom's Thumb.
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Please be aware of, and abide by the closure when it is in effect!
For more information, please visit scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
Description
**Can't find info in either guidebook I have. If you have more intel, please let me know.
West of the Head. Boulder and route can be seen from the trail to the Sven towers. This could be a route to do after finishing the right rib or the head.
Stand on boulder and stem into the start. Make a few hard moves (crux) into much easier (5.6) climbing with some decent jams and an easy finish.
Gear is all there, but thin at the start. Safest way would be to lower in to the route and place your first piece on rap.
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