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Routes in Sven Tower 3

Baby Back T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Backbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracked Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dermatome T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ergone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left Rib--5.9 variation AKA Ergone T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Left Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plaque Attack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Right Rib T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shark Attack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shark Tooth T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spare Rib T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spinal Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spinal Cracker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Spinal Nerve T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spinal Tap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 297 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ted Smith on Feb 6, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access: Details

Description

Crux is from the start to about the middle of the climb when the jams get easier, bigger, and the feet get a bit better. There is some rock in the crack that could break loose with hard pulling in a certain direction, but with finesse, the climb is pretty solid--thus the PG-13 rating.

Location

On the large block between Left and Right Rib just right of Spinal Block.

Protection

Finger-size to 3 or 4 inches near the top. One bolt at the base of the climb to assist getting safely into the protectable part of the crack. Can easily be top-roped by leading Backbone or rapping in from above.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10 PG13
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10 PG13
Some nice jamming on this one, but there is a flake that will pull off if it's pulled hard on. Reality is that you won't do that while climbing this and the pro is solid above and below, but it's a bit nerve wracking to have a creaking flake in the middle. Not sure why there's a bolt at the outset, though it does add to the comfort level of getting established in the crack -- not having the bolt would make it a more traditional McDowell Mtn type of climb (i.e. scary at the outset). May 8, 2016