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Routes in Sven Tower 3

Baby Back T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Backbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracked Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dermatome T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ergone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left Rib--5.9 variation AKA Ergone T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Left Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plaque Attack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Right Rib T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shark Attack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shark Tooth T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spare Rib T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spinal Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spinal Cracker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Spinal Nerve T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spinal Tap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,526 total, 17/month
Shared By: on Aug 9, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access: Details


Good solid rock past two bolts to first pitch crux - a semi off-width chimney easily protected.
Second pitch is short past two bolts and great belay station.
Third pitch goes across the chasm to the left and up the obvious Y-shaped crack above.
Move across the ramp leading up - you can sling the horn and then up two moves to the top anchors.


First obvious climb at the base of the tower


Bolts, Mixed gear
Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
This route can be easily done in two pitches with a 60 meter rope counting the crack section that runs to the top of Sven Tower III. The lower long pitch is the money pitch, with little thrill to the top section from my pov. The slightly overhung off-width roof (shown in the picture) is the crux, but can be climbed without using off-width technique. Actually, a good lead to get experience on mixed trad and sport, but might be a bit intimidating at the crux. Sep 27, 2010
Mesa AZ   Mesa AZ
As written in old guide :

1. Low Angle wide arete Face 2 pitches 2 bolt anchor at 35 m 2 bolt anchor on top
2. From Basin at top of routes 1 and 3, head to top of formation with 1 bolt off the deck and Pro to the top. 2 bolt anchor. 5.6 if you start right and use easiest line. Aug 11, 2010