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Routes in Sven Tower 3

Baby Back T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Backbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracked Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dermatome T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ergone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left Rib--5.9 variation AKA Ergone T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Left Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plaque Attack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Right Rib T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shark Attack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shark Tooth T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spare Rib T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spinal Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spinal Cracker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Spinal Nerve T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spinal Tap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 85 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 198 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ted Smith on Nov 15, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Crux is the first step up after clipping the first bolt--above horizontal. Direct start to the Shark Tooth formation up past a bolt to hidden piton on climber's left in upward facing flake on front of tooth. Can be viewed from below far left at shelf level before clipping first bolt. Then continue up as with Shark Tooth.

Location

Same start as with Plaque Attack and Shark Tooth, then step around front of tooth carefully before clipping first bolt.

Protection

Two pitons and two bolts. The pitons, while slightly rusted, are solidly placed and confidence-inspiring. Alpine draw for pitons better to avoid drag.

Photos

William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.9
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.9
Cool route. I found the first move off the deck is thin and more difficult than anything on shark tooth or ergone for that matter. Feb 4, 2016