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Routes in Sven Tower 3

Baby Back T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Backbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cracked Rib T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dermatome T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ergone T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Head T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left Rib--5.9 variation AKA Ergone T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Left Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plaque Attack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Right Rib T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shark Attack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shark Tooth T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spare Rib T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spinal Block T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spinal Cracker T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Spinal Nerve T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Spinal Tap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Undercling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 333 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ted Smith on Feb 6, 2016
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access: Details

Description

Crux is moving above the 3rd bolt through to 5th bolt. Spicy traverse from 2nd to 3rd bolt but grade is lower in that section, feet are good, and a fall would be clean.

Location

This climb is in the middle of the block on lower Sven 3 between Left and Right Ribs--between Dermatome (to the left) and Spinal Cracker (to the right).

Protection

Five quick draws and some small to medium gear to protect to the first bolt is optional. Can easily be top-roped by leading Backbone or rapping in from above.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11
Nice delicate and sharp (at the crux) face climbing. Agree that it's 10 climbing before and after a fun crux section. Clipping stances are solid. May 8, 2016
Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
 
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
 
This may be an excellent project for those seeking to break into the grade as the crux is fairly short with mostly 10 climbing before and after the crux. That being said, this one is pretty pumpy and bouldery! Feb 15, 2016