| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 40.61283, -111.77872 |
| FA: | CL |
| Page Views: | 242 total · 52/month |
| Shared By: | Russ Keane on Oct 20, 2025 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Description
Bold and engaging route up the longest swath in Tower of Babel area. **NOTE OF CAUTION: Brand new route through a loose and unstable section of wall. Extensive cleaning was required in cave, to engineer this route. Climb the bottom half with extreme care, and make sure belayer has a helmet! **
Start with fun 5.10 moves through two bolts, head right on the slab, and fire up the steep cave on sizable holds to the bolt protecting the crux. An unlikely sequence (which will frustrate people under 5'9") gets you past the lip and onto the fantastic upper headwall. More granite trickery and a bold run between bolts, takes you to a giant jug on the bulging arete. Creativity and patience past another bolt on the arete leads to an anchor initially out of sight (above and to the right of the 5.11 anchor). Two steel permanent biners for lowering.
Location
Bottom of Tower of Babel, where upper gully with Fuego/CJ fixed line meets the nasty lower gulch that spills into Watchtower. It's a safe and pleasant bench for belaying and hanging out. Safely accessed by the trail up from Cathedral --> new fixed line on slabby steps --> pathway across with view of Watchtower (see mountainproject.com/photo/1…). Another option is to hike across the top of Watchtower and then carefully walk left through bushes and alongside of the bottom of Babel buttress.



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