Type: Sport
FA: Drew Bedford, Doug Heinrich & Todd Evans, 1989
Page Views: 3,885 total · 24/month
Shared By: triznuty on Oct 21, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

37 Opinions

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Follow the line of bolts up a beautiful patina face. At the huge diagonal crack it's back to classic Fergy, with a very thin flaring crack to the right and small nothings to the left, and plenty of room for air if you flail. One word: CLASSIC!


6 bolts plus anchors


Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
We should probably petition mp.com for the addition of a 5th star specifically for this route. Seems like it would get at least 8 or 9 in some other areas of the Wasatch.
Great patina edges down low and an intriguing lieback crack with the occasional face hold up high when the wall gets steeper.
The route doesn't relent until you've clipped the chains.
Long and well protected for Fergy with an approach as classic as the climbing itself :) Jul 1, 2009
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Superb. Brilliant. Other synonyms for awesome. Well protected climbing with face, lieback crack, insecure vertical pocket jams, sharp crimpy patina, and a few jugs. Crux comes right at the top, so save some juice. Not sure about 5 stars Boissal, but certainly a solid 4. May 22, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
It's like a slice of City of Rocks pie. So good! Boissal said it right, needs 14 stars. If you gave it 2 stars, you're doing it wrong. May 13, 2013
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
Oh and for context...

youtube.com/watch?v=YDMxLbM… May 31, 2013
Old grey whistle test, some of the best live stuff ever. May 31, 2013
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
Hmm... I must be doing it all wrong. ..Pretty good route. Great rock, fun climbing, but I think it doesn't quite deserve the hype because its relatively easy until the very end. So it's just not as consistent at the grade as say its action packed neighbors Fuego and Pump or Jump. ..But don't get me wrong.. fun climb, and a great warm-up for the other 2 classics. Jun 15, 2015
Steve Miller
West Jordan
Steve Miller   West Jordan
Amazing route!
1st high-ish bolt is reached off some good holds. 10.c climbing up to a bomber hands free rest. Then the classic business begins! Side pulls and a few good edges. Crux is a high left pinch- under cling.
Really good! Sep 7, 2018