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Routes in Tower Of Babel

Concrete Jungle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fuego S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Get a Pump or Jump T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hielo T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: G. Kirchhoff, M. Hess, June 2012
Page Views: 128 total, 2/month
Shared By: Landon McBrayer on Jul 17, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

There is a new-ish route on the mottled face just left of Get a Pump. There are three well-spaced bolts (probably with the intent of getting gear in between; good luck with that) that lead to a two bolt anchor.

Location

Just left of Get a Pump.

Protection

Bolts/ small offset cams, micro cams.

Photos

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grk10vq    
"Back in the 1970s, climbing’s cognoscenti had ruled that bolts must be used only as a last resort. I learned to climb at Enchanted Rock near Austin, Texas, and at Quartz Mountain in Oklahoma, areas where face climbs might have one bolt every 50 feet —if you were lucky. However, today’s sport climbers frighten easily and the rules have changed. Many of the routes I cut my teeth on have been retro-bolted to assuage the fragile psyches of today’s climbers. These days, bolts are placed no more than a body-length apart when the climbing is challenging. If you choose to engineer run outs into your sport climb (i.e. pass up obvious stances where a climber could clip a bolt), and allow today’s squeamish tribe to experience a jolt of fear, they will pronounce your climb a shitpile and call you an asshole in the comments on Mountain Project. My rule of thumb is to bolt a climb so that I feel perfectly safe at all times —and then add a couple."

Jeff Jackson-


This route was drilled on lead and is in character with many of the canyon's early first ascents. Aug 10, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Scary gritty knob climbing on spaced bolts. Don't fall anywhere on this route. A few more bolts would improve this one. Jul 18, 2013