Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FA: D. Bedford, H. Armantrout, 1983 FFA: S. Hong 1983
Page Views: 1,539 total · 11/month
Shared By: Dave Budge on Aug 23, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

13 Opinions

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Great crack left of Fuego. Tape up and hang on. Cruxy start and pumpy moves above the pin where you switch cracks. Mega.


Obvious crack splitting off just left of Fuego's arete.


Good gear, but you'll get pumped placing it.


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Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
A pin and a newish looking bolt just above the crack-switch.
The tattered webbing on the anchor looks fresh. Did somebody take it down and wash it? Jul 1, 2009
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
Single rack to BD 0.75 will suffice, nothing larger. Bring small stoppers, you will use them. And watch out for the expanding flake to the left - you'll know it when you get there, stick to the crack for gear. Also, the bolt(s) down low to protect the opening moves in the flare were chopped. You can easily clip the first two bolts of fuego though to stay off the deck until you get higher. Great route! No show stopping moves like fishlips but nice and sustained. Jun 6, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
This route seems like it has some obscure history as far as pro goes. The ruckman topo shows a fixed pin(still there), but no other bolts, yet there are many chopped bolts on route, minus a unnecessary lone one that still lingers up high. Weird. IMO, this route is/should be all trad. The fixed pin has a bomber .4 cam placement below it, the bolt up high is right next to a splitter green c3 crack, and even the bottom section can be protected without clipping fuego's first bolt(though decking is more probable). Climb it how you want, using whatever gear you want, but this is a great trad climb that should not require clipping any fixed gear.

Having said that, I ripped a blue tcu at the crux(2nd piece) and almost decked but fuego's 1st bolt and the gully trees saved my bacon.

I chopped all the fixed tat on the anchor, and put some quicklinks for lowering as it seemed improbable before. Jul 18, 2013
A classic must do up Ferguson. Climb it on edges or with a bit of crack technique, which ever you prefer. Fixed pin is not needed.( Full disclosure i did clip it on my first attempt) Bolt up high is also not needed( Full disclosure i did clip it on my first attempt)

A lot of fun and worth the approach. Oct 24, 2016