Maddie's Route

Fantastic movement, world-class views, and a bit of spice.

Pitch 1 (5.10. Could be easier or harder, I'm over-rehearsed, but definitely >= 5.9): 15-20 feet of unprotected slab in the 5.8-5.9 range gains the right side of a nose-shaped roof in a corner. Use the nose and face features to gain the ramp to the left of the nose.

Pitch 1 Variation (feels like hard 5.11 to me, but maybe there's better beta): Go direct. Fight your way up the nose crack. At least it's safe, but you earn every advance.

Either way, your reward is a pleasant, safe, 5.easy low-angle finger crack with unbeatable views. Pitch ends at the lunch ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.easy): Various options, all easy, some safer than others. Have fun.

See notes on lunch ledge regarding descent beta - depending on where you top out, 70m may not quite get you to the anchors.

On safety: This is probably R at the (5.9-5.10) grade! It's "only" 15-20 to dirt, but then you'd roll down the steep hill until a tree stops you. You can opt for a placement out right before the friction move into the nostril, but you'll pay in rope drag and it'd be quite the pendulum. The key move is finicky, especially if conditions aren't perfect, and it's really more about finding just the feet than being strong or having good technique. Consider rappelling from lunch ledge to "stick-clip" some cams before trying it clean.

Find lunch ledge. Notice the distinctive nose feature to your left half way up the first pitch. Can't miss it!

Single rack.