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Routes in Cone Head Ledge

A Dilemma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Conehead direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Left Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Love to Hate it T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Murphy's Rule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Variation to Left Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Variations to Cone Head Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White and Bill Hardigan, 1983
Page Views: 37 total, 0/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 18, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb begins left of the central wall and offers the best climbing up the buttress where the first pitch is moderate (5-6) with decent small stopper protection in the crack for the whole distance of the buttress. The top half has practically no protection up a corner dike and then moves are made out away from the dike to the left horizontally to finish up a steep wall to the top at an easy grade (5-3) for most of a rope’s length little to no pro.

Location

Cone Head Mt.- Starts at the arch below buttress left or south of main face. It's the only prominent buttress on the cliff. Hike up and south until large pine is reached. Here it is possible to 4th class walk down or rappel off of tree, two ropes would be better. I have always walked down.

Protection

Stoppers and small to medium Tri-cams.

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