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Routes in Cone Head Ledge
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A Dilemma T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Art's Triangle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Center Gully Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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Conehead direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Double Scoop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Incompleteness Theorem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Learning the Hard Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Left Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Left of Lee T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c X |
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Love to Hate it T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Lunch Ledge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Maddie's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Murphy's Rule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Not For Coneheads T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Variation to Left Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Variations to Cone Head Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Variations to Murphy's Rule T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 43.9109, -71.6029 |
| FA: | Nathan Fulton, Ronnie, Abby 2025 |
| Page Views: | 62 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Fulton on Sep 30, 2025 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Private Property - Tread lightly and ask permission See Details
Details
Description
The purpose of this climb is to gain a fantastic ledge, large enough for a group lunch.
P1: Low-angle ramp leads to a cluster of pines. Move straight up through the bulge, finishing on a large ledge with a bolted anchor.
P2: Head straight up above the anchor for some nice moves in the 5.6-5.8 range, then left to the placement in a hand-sized crack. After that, choose your own adventure along four or five different lines in the 5.3 - 5.4 range. Some of these options offer good protection. The direct line up offers a quintessential Cone top-out experience: easy climbing on dirty and loose rock with minimal protection (R/X).
The walk-off is more pleasant than rappelling the first pitch. Depending on where you top out, a 70m might not reach the ledge! Just don't slip on the steeps.
Safety Rating Explanation: This climb is G/PG when climbing at the grade. The R/X rating signals the no-fall nature of the 4th class/5.0 scramble at the beginning of P1, and the (optional) 5.3-5.4 run-out when opting for the direct line on P2.
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