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Routes in Dornröschen
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Blutspur S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Egon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Es war einmal... S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Glücksgriff S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Konigin Elisabeth S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lila Brousebär S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Marloni Pepperoni S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mittelerde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moussaka Gedenkweg S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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O Nanos S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Teamwerk'5 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Three Holy Kings S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Witch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Yvonne S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 37.16718, 22.87261 |
| FA: | C. Wahle, 2016 |
| Page Views: | 29 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Top Rope Hero on Apr 20, 2025 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen, Loren P |
Description
A short, underwhelming, chunky monkey squeeze job that just barley rates a star. Or not. I'm not saying that 5a isn't a legit grade--and there are quite a few gems at that grade in Leonidio. This is not one of them. But hey! Everybody needs a warm up, sooooo...
Reach up/clip up above a wandering, angling finger crack and romp up the face to a series of easy, hulking ledges. Before you know it you'll sudden upon an early anchor under an olive tree. Meh. Fun's over.
Maybe there was a move of 5a at the very first bolt if you're way short, blind in all eyes and only have one hand? But most of this will climb like a very aggressive 3b+.
Location
Extreme right-hand side of the cliff. Keeeeeep walking up and right until the path and cliff face both begin to fade. O Nanos is the very, very last line of bolts, just before the rock turns into a terraced forest of bushes. The dirty, sloping belay is as disappointing as the climb. (NO SHADE against C. Whale and all the work s/he has done to open up the climbing here! Just saying this isn't their best work...)
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