Glücksgriff

A Glücksgriff is fabulous, immortal bird from German mythology that rises up from the ashes of a colossal fire to be born anew, symbolizing immortality, resurrection, and rebirth, a powerful symbol of hope and transformation.

Or maybe it's that greasy sausage thing that street vendors sell in Düsseldorf. I'm not really sure.

Regardless, Glücksgriff on Dornröschen (say THAT three times fast...) is a fabulous line. Onsighting this beast will make you immortal.

Ramble up easy ground on that classic, chonky gray Leonidio slab. Find yourself at a good stance at a blank section, decent feet on positive horizontals. From here you have two choices: Very sharp holds, or very painful holds. All impossibly small. The feet, initially, are non-existent--don't even ask. The hands, reachy. Grasp and reach for a leg of hope.

If you crushed that, the technical crux, then switch gears for the athletic power finish! From the top of the slab, tackle the impressive headwall, finding the left passage up the meaty prow, Awesome, overhanging cuts, the occasional jug, and various off-vert sidepulls win the day. Arrive gassed at a tenuous stance and try to get a shake. Ready? Then gun it up and way right through a final hero sequence to a sharp, uncomfortable clipping "jug" and grab the chains instead. (Bonus points if you followed the chalk straight up thru this last, ever steepening bit instead of groping out right.)

On the left half of Dornröschen, straight up underneath the peak of the huge, mushrooming bloom of rock that overhangs the very top of the crag. The name is still kinda visible, painted on the rock? But it's almost easier to locate the names Lila Brousebär on the left and Witch on the right. Glücksgriff is, obviously, sandwiched between.

13 QDs and alotta umph! The shared anchor with Witch has a two-bolt set up with rings. 

A 70 will just do it. A 60 will leave you stranded and looking foolish.

The final bolt on Glücksgriff is awkwardly placed high off to the left. The climbing DOES momentarily put you in front of this bolt, but the final moves have you angle up and waaay out to the right. Rope drag/rope scrape mandatory! I recommend clipping the final bolt on Witch instead. That bolt, a bit off to the right, (admittedly a bit difficult to clip, even if tall) will insure a much smoother/straighter feed and save that flimsy Roca cord you bought on the cheap at Decathlon.

UNFORTUNATELY, this beast shares an anchor with another fantastic (and increasingly popular) line: Witch (directly to the right). So? Be cool, spread the love, and do find ways to share this anchor. Recommend using extenders at the chains while climbing this line, leaving the bolts free for others to use on Witch. (Works better this way than the reverse.)