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Moussaka Gedenkweg
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Dornröschen
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Blutspur S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Egon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Es war einmal... S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Glücksgriff S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Konigin Elisabeth S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lila Brousebär S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Marloni Pepperoni S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mittelerde S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moussaka Gedenkweg S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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O Nanos S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Teamwerk'5 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Three Holy Kings S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Witch S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Yvonne S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 98 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 37.16718, 22.87261 |
| FA: | A Drobisch, 2015 |
| Page Views: | 54 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Top Rope Hero on Apr 20, 2025 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen, Loren P |
Description
Superb technicality. A quiet, delicate, terrible journey up tiny ledges and smaller edges. Moussakka climbs as an unrelenting, unyielding, unforgiving 6c testpiece the entire way--like you might rip off into the void at any unannounced moment. Just because.
Start at a small, tight dihedral. I'm talking VERY SMALL STUFF, HERE. A corner the size of a portion-sized chicken souvlaki.
Clip left on the blankety blank face, but keep your body and your soft anger to the right, gastoning and pressing and awkwardly pawing around. At the top of this short corner move left to a deep, thank-god incut. This is the first and last good hold on the entire line. Shake out and leave the pocket behind, questing upward, drifting left, now wandering right, keeping to the bolt-line when it works and abandoning it altogether when the holds disappear. A sublime struggle to the end when you can finally clip the chains and remember that you're supposed to breath.
Great stuff for the budding 5.11- leader. Requires more skull than skill, more brains than brawn. A tense outting that reminds us that climbing is 90% mental...and 10% mental. It's all about the head game. Now go get it, Tigress!
Location
Kinda buried in the middle of the wall.
Take the main path until it spills onto a wide, ledgey area underneath a prominent mushrooming crown of rock at the very top of the wall. Two popular routes ascend up through this feature, the right of which is called "Witch," and is painted loudly at the base of the climb. Move right from here a few/couple of meters until you see "Moussaka Gedenkweg" still faintly painted on the wall beneath a very tight, very shallow dihedral rising up for about three or four bolts. That will be your doom...or your destiny!
Protection
11 QDs to a two-bolt anchor with rings.
A 60m might probably just get you down to the ground. Might.
A thing about the guidebook...
Looking closely at the 2025 Panjika guide, I think they got this wrong. I think they have Moussaka (#15) labeled as #16, Fussballet. I'm 98.47% sure they got the picture on p. 295 wrong. Regardless, look for the name painted on the wall, and look for the lil' 4 meter corner that is your start. Can't go wrong as long as you're tied into the sharp end. It's all rock climbing, anyways. Go send!
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