Witch

Badassery. Scales the mixed slab terrain under the right side of the wall's prominent crown before moving up and left through mad steep terrain on terrible beta to the desperate, pumpy finish.  

Start up easy, broken territory for a few bolts and get established on the sheer gray panel above. The holds get equal parts sharp and small--so keep your head together and your crimp game on until you reach the rich swathe of brown broccolini above. Find your passage until you can get a decent shake at a funky, hella good tufa rib on the right (see detail photo). DO NOT MOVE ANY FURTHER RIGHT. Instead, make delicate, spooky moves up and left under the massive, angled roof until you get established at a steep diagonal crack/weakness thing (again, easy enough to see from the detail photo).

Take note: There be jugs here! Maybe even an undercling hand jam thingy. Find them. Use them. Rest here and summon your best witchcraft b/c the final moves above get wicked--WAAAY harder than the 7a grade would suggest. Bust out your finest V4 sorcery for several vicious moves and lunge desperately for the anchor out left. Bonus points if you send this without calling on the dark arts from the underworld.

ONE THING: The top bit admits of a couple/three different finishes. They're all hard; they're all desperate. Send and repeat, if'n you like.

Easy enough to find. Pretty much right there where the main trail breaks out into a small clearing on the left side of Dornröschen. Look up! Identify the large, prominent crown of rock that mushrooms out from the top of the wall. Impossible to see in the guidebook photos, but equally impossible to miss when you're actually there, standing under the thing. 

Glücksgriff and Witch are the only two lines that climb up through this obvious feature, Witch is on the right, rising up from the name paint on the wall.

13 QDs to a two-bolt anchor with rings. 

Def want a 70m rope for this. Or your best broom.

UNFORTUNATELY, this beast shares an anchor with another fantastic (and popular) line: Glücksgriff.(To the left.) So? Be cool, spread the love, and do find ways to share this anchor. Recommend asking crews on that line to use extenders at the chains, leaving the bolts free for you to use on Witch. (Works better this way than the reverse.)