Type: Sport, 98 ft (30 m)
GPS: 36.48925, -121.19833
FA: Gavin Emmons and Brian Hamilton, Aug 2018
Page Views: 84 total · 8/month
Shared By: Chris Henry on Mar 30, 2025
Admins: andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Start up a mossy ramp on the outside-right wall of the chimney between Spike's Peak's middle and east formations. The first bolt will soon appear right at the top of this ramp. Continue up and left on easy terrain past another bolt. The next section can be climbed many different ways - but most will employ a sequence of wide stemming to the opposite wall or make steep moves on fairly good holds. Continue in this manner until the stemming becomes too wide and the generous holds are replaced with small crimps and tricky feet (crux) for a few bolts after which the angle eases but the climbing remains thoughtful.

 The route can (just barely) be TRed with a 60 (knot your end).

Location Suggest change

Spike's peak is formed by three main pinnacles (denoted east, middle, and west). This route is located on the outside of the chimney formed by the east and middle pinnacles.

At the first switchback west of Dragonfly Dome follow a use-trail down to a saddle, then proceed down a loose less well defined use trail towards the N faces of Spike's Peak. Scramble back up toward the chimney between the east and middle formations taking care to avoid poison oak and loose footing.

Protection Suggest change

11 bolts to a two bolt anchor equip with mussy hooks.

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