Type: TR, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Jeff Butterfield & Chris Kane, mid 1990s
Page Views: 4 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ryan DeLena on Aug 22, 2024
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Just right of the big roof (Grumble 5.8 A2) is a steep face climb. This might be the biggest sandbag on the island. Maybe I’m a softie, but climb Unforgiven and Connecticut Cracks, then tell me this is the same grade. In addition to a sandbag, it’s also a spider bag. Come prepared or potentially leave with super powers.
Start under the right end of the big roof and climb reachy moves on ever thinning crimps. The crux comes at the very end, when you cross and stand up into an undercling to gain the horizontal break. Pumpy moves to the right end of the roof lead to a big undercling where you can get a shake. Bust out the overlap to a victory jug, pull onto a ledge, and follow an easy crack to the top.

Location Suggest change

At the right end of the big roof crack. This is on the next wall left after passing the sport climbs. To access the top, follow the easy gully just right of the ledge Downforce starts on.

Protection Suggest change

TR from a tree.

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