Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 89 total · 20/month
Shared By: Dandy Warhol on Oct 16, 2019
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

Description

This climb is part of an area the guidebook calls the "Outback Wall". Located left to the House of Detention wall, this area sees little traffic and as such is not the cleanest climbing on the island. Nevertheless, there are some fun, short climbs in this area and it's definitely worth exploring further.

For this route you'll climb up to a large-ish first ledge where you can throw in a double knee-bar rest if you're feeling extra. Then follow cracks and ledges up a slight corner to the top of the cliff. Crux is getting through the ten feet of narrow cracks following the first ledge; after that it's pretty straightforward climbing to the top out to the right of the small tree. Anchor off of the large tree set well back from the top of the route; consider bringing static rope to extend the anchor out over the lip or a rope rug to save your rope from wear running over the lip.

Location

Walk left of the house of detention wall for a short ways and past the obvious roof (guidebook calls this Grumble). The route begins just left of a small roof that is about 10 ft from the ground; look up and you'll see a small tree growing out of the top of the cliff, underneath a wide, slightly detached section. The route runs more or less up the cracks/small corner to the right.

To set a toprope, either scramble up the obvious gully on the right side of the area (you'll see this walking in) or walk past where the cliffs run out where you'll encounter a hiking trail. Walking along the top of the cliff you'll come to a large tree that you can belay/TR off of.

Protection

Small-medium cams, nuts. Use natural anchors at top (set well back from cliff-edge.

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