Type: Trad, 281 ft (85 m), 5 pitches
GPS: 47.82514, -121.55905
FA: unknown
Page Views: 407 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 19, 2023
Admins: Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Warning Access Issue: Rockfall danger from the Diamond above. Beware when on the west end or Rattletale approach. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route finishes on the classic last pitch of Velvet Pedestal, but avoids the crux pitch of that route. The easiest version starts on Burt's Alpine Dirtbus, though skips that route's first pitch by either walking in onto Waterfall Ledge or by doing Kittens in the Cockpit (5.8+). 

After doing two pitches of Burt's (5.7+, 5.4; can be done as one pitch with several alpine slings), do a short pitch up Lou's slab to the large ledge at the base of Sweet Nuthin. This route takes the easiest way up Lou's, a 5.2 pitch on the right side called Flamingo # 492 though you can instead do a 5.9 friction pitch just left or a 5.10 arete further left. Then start up the corner crack of Sweet Nuthin (~5.9), but stay in the corner as it bends back right to the Velvet Ledges. Shift your belay right along the ledges and climb the last pitch of Velvet Pedestal (5.7+).

This route is also nice for those who start up Velvet Pedestal, but decide not to do the crux 10a pitch. From Rojo's, take the black handline left (west) to the base of p3 (Flamingo #492). This way avoids the (presently grungier) first pitches of Burt's.  

Location Suggest change

From Waterfall Ledge, or from Kittens below. Ends at the top of Lookout Point, on the western end.

Protection Suggest change

Rack from wired nuts to about 3" cams. If you do Kittens, then add one larger cam.

Photos

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