Type: Trad, TR, 300 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Derek Pearson, Michal Rykiewicz, Ryan Hoover, Chandler Davis
Page Views: 1,518 total · 31/month
Shared By: derekpearson Pearson on Apr 24, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

P1 5.7 use hand line to get to the corner.
P2 11b is splitter finger crack single rack double blue and yellow metolious sizes if you wanna sew it up.
P3 10a more splitter but cruser with a sting in the tail finish. Added a bolt on this at the end istead of using cams in the pockets.
P4 11+crimpy start leads to a crystal pocket and small over lap then some of the coolest slab around index maybe, i dont know so comment below if you think so as well. Bring one cam .2 or yellow metolious size and 14 draws for this includes anchors.Crux can be easily aided to make sweet 5.10
P5 11+is splitter tips just to first knuckle for 20' then capped with a steep bolted finish
60 meter rope can get you down
14 draws
Single rack to 3" double from the 0 to 2 of metolious sizes
Single set of nuts 1-6  we only placed a couple

Location

The route is about 90' left of B2B Biscuts starts in a corner still a little dirty but doable, p2 through 5 are really good. 

Protection

Single rack to #3 bd double up on the thin from 0 to 2 of metolious or similar
60m rope
Chain belays 
derekpearson Pearson
Snohomish, WA
  5.11b
derekpearson Pearson   Snohomish, WA
  5.11b
I saw evidence of an ascent. Apr 28, 2015
JRanish  
P2 and 3 have excellent climbing. We did some cleaning. Quickly becoming 3 stars May 25, 2015
derekpearson Pearson
Snohomish, WA
  5.11b
derekpearson Pearson   Snohomish, WA
  5.11b
Sweet! I'm stoked , p1 is not to bad even when dirty . The wide section is fun and pretty clean. May 26, 2015
Jessica T
seattle, wa
 
Jessica T   seattle, wa
 
Thanks for the work on this and the pedestal. looking forward to the completion on pitch 4 and on! Mar 19, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11b
the top of pitch 2 anchor took a hit, 1 hanger still usable but flattened over.
We will be doing this again, needs more traffic. Mar 21, 2016
derekpearson Pearson
Snohomish, WA
  5.11b
derekpearson Pearson   Snohomish, WA
  5.11b
I wanted to fix that before I left but wasn't able to manage the time. Whoever does it I will buy all the beer and food to celebrate the fix when I return in a year. Pitch 3 could use a bolt as well for the finishing traverse moves.

I can't wait to get back and finish it. Pitch four is an open project that I bolted. To the right of p4 I started cleaning something easier. Mar 21, 2016
Benjamin Pontecorvo
Seattle, WA
Benjamin Pontecorvo   Seattle, WA
Does anyone know the current status of this route? It looks SPLITTAH, almost did pitch two when I did Velvet the other day. Jul 6, 2018
derekpearson Pearson
Snohomish, WA
  5.11b
derekpearson Pearson   Snohomish, WA
  5.11b
I replaced the damaged hanger.

Pitches 1-3 are a great link up. Be prepared for 5.11 splitter heaven on p2. P3 is splitter to but way easier. Jul 9, 2018
Jeremy Park
Seattle, WA
Jeremy Park   Seattle, WA
Psyched this is completed. Did it about 2-3yrs ago and the climbing was awesome! Pitches two and three were super fun! Jul 21, 2018
Ryan Hoover
Marysville, Wa
  5.11b
Ryan Hoover   Marysville, Wa
  5.11b
Mike/Chandler/Ryan grading system to add some consistency:

P1: 5.7
P2: 5.11a
P3: 5.10a
P4: 5.11-
P5: 5.11b

P1 still needs a little more love and we ran out of leaf blower juice. Def still manageable and we will give her some more love before too long! A hand line is in place for now. Jul 21, 2018
derekpearson Pearson
Snohomish, WA
  5.11b
derekpearson Pearson   Snohomish, WA
  5.11b
Yeah Jeremy you will totally dig the upper pitches. This is a really fun outing, well bolted and really good gear through out. Jul 21, 2018
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
I walked below you guys yesterday evening as you were dusting off the 3rd pitch. Derek with leaf blower and the man with the amazing bright-green shorts. Looked like you were all having a blast.

BTW, I agree with the description: pitch 4 has the coolest slab moves yet at Index. And the pitch 2 crack is the best finger crack of its grade at Index. Jul 21, 2018
JRanish  
Looks like another masterpiece. Thanks guys! Lots of work. When did you begin development? Jul 22, 2018
Ryan Hoover
Marysville, Wa
  5.11b
Ryan Hoover   Marysville, Wa
  5.11b
Derek started a long while back but never got around to p4 and 5 and left a little cleaning on the lower pitches (we still have a little to do). We joined forces with Derek a couple months back. Jul 26, 2018
Nicola Masciandaro
Brooklyn, NY
Nicola Masciandaro   Brooklyn, NY
Happy to see that the line follows the way of the crystal pocket. I fondly remember those super cool moves from tr years ago. Thanks to Derek and crew! Aug 9, 2018
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Nicola, if this is the pocket over the little headwall-bulge after the pitch 3 crack, then it looks like it skips the crystal pocket.
Doesn't the picture of Derek show the belay off to the right? Also, the picture "Michal on p4" shows him off to the right of said pocket.

With another few bolts, one might do the pocket direct, linking p3 and p4. Aug 12, 2018
Ryan Hoover
Marysville, Wa
  5.11b
Ryan Hoover   Marysville, Wa
  5.11b
The pocket is still in use! Just protects by a bolt instead of a cam now. Aug 12, 2018
Matt Carroll
Seattle WA
Matt Carroll   Seattle WA
Sent this thing yesterday- really amazing climbing. Slab pitch is really fun, with some of the grippiest rock I’ve padded up before. Super enjoyable. Last pitch was a nice contrast with some steep power-moves! Of course, the cracks are great too. This should be on anyone’s tick list, and all the pitches are easily workable if you need to finish out the RP. Oct 28, 2018