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Say When
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.8 from 117
votes
Routes in (E) The Velvet
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Alpinist's Secret Handjam, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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And Say T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Golden Age of Ballooning, The T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Impressions from Pablo's Country T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Legend of Wyldman James, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pumpkin Toadlet T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Say When T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sounding the Alarm* T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sweet Nuthin T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Velvet Goldmine aka Lonesome Cowboy Bill, Who Loves the Sun T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Velvet Pedestal, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Walk on the West Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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West Ridge, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 47.82514, -121.55905 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,527 total · 70/month |
| Shared By: | skye h on Jul 18, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Great new route and wonderful opportunity to mix and match with Velvet (pitches for both are next to each other and easy to access). You must first do an access pitch to reach this route.
P1: Head up the deep crack, then climb a left-arching crack to the chains. There's a small triangular ledge you can stand in to belay. Your climber will climb the next pitch to the right of your anchor.
Note: At these chains, you have the option to transfer to a set of chains to the left (around the corner) -- if you go here, you can climb the third pitch of Velvet Pedestal.
P2: climb the left-arching crack, then step up into a low angle corner which steepens. At the top of the corner a short finger crack takes one to the rim.
P2 variation: After gaining the low angle corner, traverse right to the arete. Clip a bolt on the right side of the arete and continue up the slab and corner to the top (10-).
(watch your rope at the direction change, as there's a horizontal crack it will tend to slide into as you're going to the right -- just flip the rope past the crack here to keep it out) and then head up to chains around a tree.
Rap the route with a 70m.
Location
Say When is to the left of And Say and to the right of Velvet Pedestal's second pitch. But one must first start on the same pitch as And Say and Velvet Pedestal. You know you are in the right place to start if you are at a high point on the ground at the base of a blocky right-facing corner with a wooden step to get started.
Climb the first pitch of Velvet Pedestal (i.e. climb the dirty and blocky corner to the intermediate chains and then climb one of the cleaner cracks (either the finger crack on the right or the arching-right hand crack on the left) to the second set of chains. Walk left of these chains and around the corner to the first tree. Beside the tree (to your right) a deep crack runs up. You can stem off the tree to start. To the left is a bolt on a slab indicating the start of the second pitch of Velvet Pedestal.
Protection
Smaller pieces are good (consider triples in .5 to .75 if you're nervous), I don't know if we placed anything larger than a 1. However, you need a few 2s and maybe a 3 to get up to the start of the route (for the Velvet Pedestal pitch) so factor that in as well. Bring a 4 if going all the way up the crack on P1 instead of cutting off left early.
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