Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: D. Pearson, J. Nelson
Page Views: 2,122 total · 44/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 23, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details


P1: 5.9. Start in the blocky corner. It gets cleaner and nicer as you go up. After an intermediate chained anchor (~15-m up; do not belay here), there is a 5.9 finger-crack/layback move on a right-leaning crack that goes up to some hand jams behind a flake. At the top of the flake, and just upon reaching the steep finger crack, traverse left on the sloping ledge to a chained belay anchor.

P2: 10a. Walk left past the tree. Then traverse left on the slab past the bolt. Face climb up the minor roof to a left-pointing layback crack, and then left-trending layback crack. Good friction on the slabs, but no real footholds, so this crack is pumpy. Chained anchor on the ledge above. Except for the slabby start, this is classic Index corner climbing. It is somewhat like the 2nd pitch of Rattletale except pointing the other way.

P3: 5.8. Presently, the only way this has been ascended is by trending up and right to the large, left-facing corner with trees. It is presently uncleaned, and quite the grovel through trees, but when cleaned up will rival the super-classic second pitch. But not recommended even for fans of brush-tree groveling due to there being two loose flakes, one the size of a refrigerator door.

Face-arete variations to P2 and P3 have been cleaned off, but haven't been finished yet. Please wait on these.


Starts about 50' left of the start of Bowling to Biscuits. Ascend the fixed line that you use to reach Bowling, Peanuts, and the Cringe, but trend left instead of right. Look for the large, blocky, right-facing corner. Shares the same start as And Say.


Full range from 1/4"-wide stoppers to 4" cams. Double in the 1-2" range.
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
very nice route, thanks for the cleaning Derek and Jon.
the top is mostly .5 Camalot size. Mar 20, 2016
I lowered in from the top not knowing quite what this was. The second pitch is definitely a classic. It felt about 5.9 on TR, but I could see how placing gear might bump the grade up a bit. Really looking forward to the finished product on the third pitch. The more direct version in particular looks like a lot of fun. Thanks for all the work you've put into this one. Sep 22, 2016
Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
Great to hear.

My newly repaired knee ought to be good to go in time for the peak cleaning season (this coming winter), and with Derek back, we'll aim to hit this route right away. Sep 22, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
Major attack of red ants at anchor of top of the 5.10 corner. Try not to stand on their nest like I did. Sep 27, 2017
Just a heads up: climbed this yesterday. the top of this pitch seems to be close to raptor nesting areas. We were getting dive-bombed continuously while belaying/repelling atop the 2nd pitch. Jun 13, 2018
Everett WA
michal   Everett WA
The Raptors are nesting on Sabbra Caddabra. They are just really mean birds. They have dive bombed me at Lookout and the Cheeks and Diamond. Truly unpleasant animals. Jun 13, 2018
Hank Thompson
Tacoma, WA
Hank Thompson   Tacoma, WA
A 70m rope barely makes the rappel on the 2nd pitch. Mar 17, 2019
J Wilson  
Second pitch is great. I would encourage extra 0.5 camalots for the top of pitch two, or at least saving them for this section. I think you could easily place 3 or 4, depending on your comfort. 4 days ago