All Locations > S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > Mt Baldy > Old Baldy

Unknown Chimney

Name: Unknown Chimney
Rating: 2.0

5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Old Baldy

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chrome Dome S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Comb Over S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Curly S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fritz's Forehead T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Grecian Formula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Male Pattern Boldness S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Parting Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pigeon Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Receding Fall Line T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rogaine with Minoxidil T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown Chimney T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Wiggy T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

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Type:	Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
GPS:	43.8907, -103.45832
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	293 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Sarah Meiser on Jun 29, 2022
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

I accidentally climbed this thinking it was the Parting Line chimney system which is a bit further east. If anyone has additional information please share!

P1: Get established in the chimney. This is the crux of the route and involves somewhat tricky climbing on lichen covered rock. Once inside the lichen and difficulty both ease. Squirm up a bit until the chimney morphs into a nice, clean #4 crack and follow this to a large ledge.

P2: The chimney keeps going, but I'm not sure if it is climbable. We decided to top out via the featured face left of the chimney. It is mostly low angle climbing except for a few steep moves that are easily protected by slinging a perfectly placed, solitary chickenhead.

To descend, either walk off or rappel with double ropes from any one of several sets of anchors.

Location

The obvious chimney system on the left side of Old Baldy's southwest face. You can't miss it. Scramble up an easy left to right trending ramp system to the base of the chimney.