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Routes in Old Baldy

Chrome Dome S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comb Over S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Curly S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fritz's Forehead T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grecian Formula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Male Pattern Boldness S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Parting Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pigeon Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Receding Fall Line T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rogaine with Minoxidil T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggy T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details


Old Baldy is the huge dome shaped rock in the Old Baldy area. Pick it out by looking for the largest formation. Although Old Baldy is not largely developed, there are some older trad routes and some newer sport routes put up in the last few years.

Getting There

Follow the path that leads to the Old Baldy area. More can be found in Dan's description for the area.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Baldy

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grecian Formula
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rogaine with Minoxidil
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Male Pattern Boldness
Sport 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Comb Over
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Grecian Formula
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Rogaine with Minoxidil
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Male Pattern Boldness
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport 3 pitches
Comb Over
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Old Baldy »

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Pidgeon Roof sees a 2nd ascent? Suprising. But FA by Old Schooler? Ouch. I put this up in '86, and hoped that there would be something fun at the roof. It was a ground-up-drill-on-the-lead affair, but just 'cuz that was convenient. In fact two other routes that I put up around the same time at Old Baldy also went in as ground-up on-sites: Watching the Wild Things and Hydra-crack. Wonder if Wild Things has seen any traffic? Never got around to bolting a direct finish.

But if I had to pick a label (and who wants to be labeled?) it would Eclectic Schooler. Quality endures. Vern Phinney's "Recedeing Fallline", just left of Pidgeon Roof was a good line in the neighborhood, too. - Mark J. Feb 20, 2004
Sorry Mark Jacobs,I did not mean to put you down. I simply did not have the guide book anywhere near me. I had thought of doing this route for years and never new who put it up. As for the second ascent I am sure someone else has done it in the past 20 years. Watching the wild things on the other hand does not get done much at all. I dont know anyone who has. Is it well protected in the hard parts? Old schoolers and eclectic schoolers are still found practicing rock craft around here not as much as the yester year but they are still around. I am still young and many of my peers think that ground up routes are "old school" and will never be as good a rap bolted route. I think putting a route from the ground up is about as fun as any aspect of climbing. Some of my best memories are of going up into the unknown and finding something, falling off, or weighting hooks to drill.The saticfaction you get out of that and the relationship you develop with the route becomes very special. Well anyway sorry for the misinformation, I hope you get over it. Feb 21, 2004
Hello Curt,Didn't intend to sound offended. Just that the "Old Schooler" comment hit me as particularly ironic since Vern P. pinned whole the Rushmore "rap" on myself and Carl Coy in an essay in his guidebook. I'll gladly take the blame/credit, but what I advocated was putting up routes that you would want to repeat, in whatever style. And honesty about the style that you used. If you can do that and still get in some adventure, hat's off to you. I never liked mixing drilling and climbing. But you do get back from a route what you put into it.

Watching the Wild Things takes great pro, as I remember. Small wires to large fingers (?). Did it a couple of times. Vern showed me the line, and we had a memorable day with the goats and the eagles. The route headed right at the roof that caps the diehedral, and it seemed like cheating. Old Baldy was well off the beaten path in '86. Looks like boulder central now. What a spectacular playground. I'm in Portland, OR these days and when August comes around, I do miss the Hills.

Enjoyed the write-up on Pidgeon Roof, and thanks for the reply,Mark J. Feb 22, 2004
Hello Mark,I am going to baldy this monday. I plan to do watching the wild things, only tommorow will tell. Lets say I get to the top and go right but see something staight up would you mind if I bolted the finish, and put in a new anchor if needed? Not monday of course but some other day. Feb 22, 2004
Curt,By all means, if you think there's a direct finish on Wild Things that's worth adding, I'ld encourage you to put it up. Or add an anchor, as you think best. Seems early to be climbing in the shade, but I forget that you're living in the Banana Belt of the Dakotas.And I've gotten soft.Best Regards,Mark J. Feb 24, 2004

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