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Routes in Old Baldy

Chrome Dome S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comb Over S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Curly S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fritz's Forehead T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grecian Formula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Parting Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pigeon Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Receding Fall Line T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rogaine with Minoxidil T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggy T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike McNeil
Page Views: 1,609 total, 16/month
Shared By: Mike McNeil on Jun 30, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Far to the left of the "newly bolted" routes past a large chimney system you will see a couple of beefy bolts going up some schist. This is the route. I believe there were about 6 bolts plus gear placements to a two bolt anchor on the face. I think there are then 5 bolts on the second pitch with some gear placements as well. Belay counter-weighted in a hole and walk off the back. The crux is clipping the 3rd bolt on the second pitch.

Location

West face of old Baldy

Protection

Bolts + gear to 3 inches. One rack is plenty. It is also nice to bring some long slings

Photos

J.Kruse
Las Cruces, NM
 
J.Kruse   Las Cruces, NM
 
After the obvious first four bolts after the anchor on the second pitch, had a hard time locating any others on the way up. Nice options for gear and chicken heads to sling though. I will echo the comment above that approaching this as a sport climb might not be wise.

Also, careful if you try to rap the route from the anchors near the top. A 70m rope did not quite reach the anchors on the first pitch and required a little problem solving to sort out. I think the guide instructs to hike off, but just a heads up incase you try to rap. Apr 8, 2016
Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
No anchor just sit in one of the tubs and walk off. Hip belay if you would like. Nov 23, 2015
Super fun and leads to a breathtaking summit view!! Rated PG-13 in the Rushmore Guidebook, but don't let this scare you away. The runout sections in the first pitch can easily be protected with gear, and even if you don't have gear, the climbing is 5.5 or 5.4. In the second pitch, the runout sections are not as easily protected, but are very easy climbing. Could not locate the anchors to the route (still not sure why, maybe the leader for the second pitch was just blind?), and had to use the anchors for a route about 20 feet to climber's left. Traversing was easy, though. Nov 23, 2015
Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
Chris, I should read what I write on my phone before submitting. Haha. I fixed the comment above, but I was a little surprised when it showed up in the Rushmore book as a sport route. There are quite a few good placements to be had, but not everyone will feel the need to use them. I would want them to know it can be a very safe route if they so choose. Jul 6, 2015
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.8
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.8
"Taking a wreck 23 makes us route deafly not a PG-13 route. It was intended to be a mixture route and therefore have very adequate protection."

Mr. McNeil your amusing post seems to be riddled with typos and I'm certainly no spelling nazi. Are you saying that bringing a small rack is recommended? I think I placed a nut on the first pitch to alleviate a runout and also sling a nice horn in one place. Good route, thanks for putting it up. Jul 1, 2015
Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
Taking A rack to a three definitely makes this route not a PG-13. It was intended to be a mixed route and therefore have very adequate protection. Jun 30, 2015
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.8 PG13
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.8 PG13
no need for gear. maybe 1 piece on the 2nd pitch #1 or 2# with a long runner. route is pg13 with bolts right where you need them, not where you want them though. run outs are easy terrain, 5.4ish. Nov 21, 2012