Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft
FA: McNeil
Page Views: 696 total · 4/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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5.10a 200ft Bolts and Gear

This route starts 20 ft right of Wiggy on the arete. Gently climb up the schist reaching left to clip the first bolt on the arĂȘte. Pull over onto the arĂȘte and follow the bolt line up the face. Super fun 5.9/5.10 moves. After about 55 feet bale into the deep crack, placing gear up to _as big as you want_. After about 75 feet you will emerge out of the crack and begin clipping bolts pulling super fun moves on dinner plates to the anchors of Curly.


Bolts and gear of all sizes


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Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
This routes name is Fritz's Forehead. I thought it was in the 10a range when I first did it. My last name is spelled McNeil Jun 30, 2009
For those of you who don't have the pro or the guts to take on the upper part of the stemmy crack, it is easy to bail to the right and traverse to the second to last bolt of Curly's first pitch. Clip the final bolt and gain Curly's first anchor. Use long runners to reduce rope drag. Belay up your partner, get reestablished, and clip bolts to the a point where you are just under the roof of Curly's second pitch. Veer off to the left traversing on good holds and clip the bolt that you would encounter if you were just leaving Fritz's dirty crack. Enjoy the dinner plate petina holds and gain the anchors. You will need to bring a couple small nuts, 1 smaller cam (Black Diamond Yellow C3) and at least three hand sized pieces (Black Diamond 1,2 and 3) for the fun fist crack that you encounter before the crack gets really wide, fairly vegetated and hard to protect. "Fritz's Curly Forehead" is a variation that allows you to skip the hard first pitch of Curly, bipass the horrible part of Fritz's upper crack, or will allow you to try out the roof pull on Curly's second pitch until you wuss out, lower, and enjoy the bolted upper section of Fritz. Do what you want. No pressure. A good time will be had by all. Apr 9, 2016
Mike McNeil
Spearfish, South Dakota
Mike McNeil   Spearfish, South Dakota
I don't remember the crack being all that dirty, but it has been a while. Probably all the lichen scrubbed off the face when all the later routes went in Duane. Haha Feb 9, 2017
Rapid City, SD
ShanJ2me   Rapid City, SD
The crack is clean as of 10-2017. Bring some smaller cams - green aliens- blue master cams- red C.3 around those sizes and you will be fine in the upper crack. The harder climbing is in the bolted sections. Oct 5, 2017