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Routes in Old Baldy

Chrome Dome S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comb Over S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Curly S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fritz's Forehead T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grecian Formula T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Parting Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pigeon Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Receding Fall Line T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rogaine with Minoxidil T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggy T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: The Unknown Climber
Page Views: 442 total, 3/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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These routes are best approached via the bouldering trail. When the trail T's left or right to go to the various bolders just walk straight up to Baldy.

P1 65ft Bolts and Gear5.7 This left most route. Starts with a couple of bolts and then heads into the crack that takes gear up to 2.5 inches. Clip one more bolt after the crack ends and then to the anchors.

P2 95ft Bolts and Gear5.10d/11.a Continue up the crack placing gear up to 2.5 inches until you reach the arête. Clip bolts on the arête as you stem up the grove. At the last bolt on the arête pull over onto the face and head up to the little roof on the headwall. Clip bolts and enjoy the fun moves to the top.

This route needs a little cleaning. Great warm up.

When rapping off these anchors you may want to tie knots in the end of your rope.


gear up to 2.5 inches and Bolts


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mike gibson
Rapid City, SD
mike gibson   Rapid City, SD
The second pitch is the money pitch. Its a little dirty starting into the second but turns into a wild ride once you get out of the crack and onto the face. Oct 13, 2014
The second pitch is one of the best pitches on the granite of the greater Harney Range. Totally worth the walk. Few real hard moves but still committing. Put on you finest Phyllis Diller and get Wiggy! Sep 19, 2005