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Unknown Chimney

5.9-, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > Mt Baldy > Old Baldy
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Description

I accidentally climbed this thinking it was the Parting Line chimney system which is a bit further east. If anyone has additional information please share!

P1: Get established in the chimney. This is the crux of the route and involves somewhat tricky climbing on lichen covered rock. Once inside the lichen and difficulty both ease. Squirm up a bit until the chimney morphs into a nice, clean #4 crack and follow this to a large ledge.

P2: The chimney keeps going, but I'm not sure if it is climbable. We decided to top out via the featured face left of the chimney. It is mostly low angle climbing except for a few steep moves that are easily protected by slinging a perfectly placed, solitary chickenhead.

To descend, either walk off or rappel with double ropes from any one of several sets of anchors.

Location

The obvious chimney system on the left side of Old Baldy's southwest face. You can't miss it. Scramble up an easy left to right trending ramp system to the base of the chimney.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 camalot. I found a #5 comforting for the cruxy start but it is not mandatory.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The crux chimney entrance.
[Hide Photo] The crux chimney entrance.
Unknown chimney on Old Baldy's southwest face.
[Hide Photo] Unknown chimney on Old Baldy's southwest face.