Type: Trad, 50 ft (15 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 39.1016, -108.7346
FA: unknown
Page Views: 568 total · 11/month
Shared By: Mickey Guziak on May 16, 2022 · Updates
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

You've looked at the prominent white whale before and have always wondered how to get up it. Well, here is the answer: park as you would for climbing Remnants (The Defecating Monk), and hike into Lizard Canyon. You are aiming for the west slopes underneath the whale. A landslide on the leftmost portion leads up to a short slab pitch. We placed either a #4 or #5 for pro. Belay off of a tree.

Now walk all the way to the right where you can climb a short, wide chimney to the next ledge system. Work your way left to the next weakness. These two weaknesses were climbed unroped, 5.easy. Now, make your way over to the connecting ridge. To gain access to the whale, move onto the east side of the ridge, and make some easy but exposed moves up a slab. Reversing this section is likely the crux, it may be worth bringing 25' of an old rope to leave for a handline to get back down. If you have a timid climber, a belay/rap can be set up easily. From here, it is easy walking to the summit of the whale!

Note: this is hardly a climb (the actual whale is literally 2nd class), but a decent little outing to obtain a rare summit.

Location Suggest change

It is in between Lizard Canyon and Wedding Canyon. To the south behind the butte is the aptly named Ahab Tower.

Protection Suggest change

50-100' rope, webbing, and a single set of cams is more than enough.

To descend, reverse the route.

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