The Book of Pleasure
Avg: 1 from 2 votes
Routes in Fruita Canyon
|Balanced Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1-|
|Ballerina (right of Taper) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Book of Pleasure, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+|
|Harvest Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Left of Special Verdict T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Oliver Perry Smith Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Ribbed Buttress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1|
|Special Verdict T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Squeeze Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Taper (unknown) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Z-Row Gravity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Mike Baker, Lesli Henderson, March 1994 - 5.9 C1+|
|Page Views:||92 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Airbiscuit on Jan 6, 2007|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionP1: solo up the short perfict hand crack to the alcove that marks the start of the of the Ribbed Buttress.
P2 or P2/3: start the ribbed buttress climbing a short, semi-rotten chimney to the second rib and a newish 3/8" bolt. Belay here to minimize rope drag or climb on if you have managed things properly. From here, traverse right for 8 feet or so on sketchy, broken 5.8. Aiding a few last pieces to get around the corner. From here, follow the line of fixed pieces for fifty feet or so expecting a few exciting moves till entering the Book. Climb up twenty feet in the book to a hidden belay at a decent stance.
P3 or 4: you are now at the base of some sweet climbing fire up the "Book of Pleasure" at 5.9 hands for 100'+/- to a bolt and pin belay. 20' or so below the intimading roof.
P4 or 5: thrutch up the munge at 5.10 or C1 awkward and out the roof on solid cams. Turn the roof and climb to the rim. Rope drag is a bitch on this pitch.