Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ron Olevsky, solo, Feb. 1978, 5.8 A3
Page Views: 2,129 total · 14/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Jan 6, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of gems around here, short approach, good moves, and good adventurous climbing. It is definitely a must do.

P1: Solo a short perfect hands crack (5.8) to an alcove at the base of a large chimney (you can avoid this pitch by climbing a ramp and entering this alcove from the side but it is WAY sketchy!).

P2: Climb a long pitch up the semi-rotten chimney past a few fixed anchors catch a rest and then fire up the fingers in the right-facing chimney on better rock to a hanging belay. 5.10+.

P3: Continue traversing past two fixed anchors to a thin, finger crack. Nail the correct sequence and fire through ten feet of 5.11 to good jams. Continue through a difficult wide section to a rest and continue up the fist crack in perfect chocolate to a belay at in the "rib eye". 5.11+.

P4: Continue free up the heinous, overhanging slot (freed in 2000 by Matt L.) or clip [through] the bolt ladder circumventing the roof to easier ground and the summit. C2 5.9+ / 5.11+.

Location

This is right off the road approximately 100 yards before the first tunnel on a south-facing buttress. The start of the climb is approximately 5 minutes from the road. Great route, stimulating at times, anchors were updated in 2004'. There are no summit anchors. Top out and walk down the road hitching a ride if you can.

Protection

Doubles with an extra fist-size, nuts, hexes, maybe a few extra thin finger pieces, long draws.

Photos