Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
Routes in Fruita Canyon
|Balanced Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1-|
|Ballerina (right of Taper) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Book of Pleasure, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+|
|Harvest Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Left of Special Verdict T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Oliver Perry Smith Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Ribbed Buttress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1|
|Special Verdict T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Squeeze Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Taper (unknown) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Z-Row Gravity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Ron Olevsky, solo, Feb. 1978, 5.8 A3|
|Page Views:||1,899 total, 14/month|
|Shared By:||Airbiscuit on Jan 6, 2007|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is one of gems around here, short approach, good moves, and good adventurous climbing. It is definitely a must do.
P1: Solo a short perfect hands crack (5.8) to an alcove at the base of a large chimney (you can avoid this pitch by climbing a ramp and entering this alcove from the side but it is WAY sketchy!).
P2: Climb a long pitch up the semi-rotten chimney past a few fixed anchors catch a rest and then fire up the fingers in the right-facing chimney on better rock to a hanging belay. 5.10+.
P3: Continue traversing past two fixed anchors to a thin, finger crack. Nail the correct sequence and fire through ten feet of 5.11 to good jams. Continue through a difficult wide section to a rest and continue up the fist crack in perfect chocolate to a belay at in the "rib eye". 5.11+.
P4: Continue free up the heinous, overhanging slot (freed in 2000 by Matt L.) or clip [through] the bolt ladder circumventing the roof to easier ground and the summit. C2 5.9+ / 5.11+.