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Routes in Fruita Canyon

Balanced Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1-
Ballerina (right of Taper) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Book of Pleasure, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+
Harvest Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left of Special Verdict T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oliver Perry Smith Buttress T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ribbed Buttress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1
Special Verdict T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taper (unknown) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Z-Row Gravity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Stubbs and Company, 1980s
Page Views: 468 total · 5/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on May 3, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This gem had some new life breathed into it this spring. The knotted webbing (British style) second pitch anchor has been replaced as well as the Star drive 1st pitch anchor. The 15' of 5.9 uber choss that has guarded the start of this route now sports two solid fixed pieces that are somewhat comforting as you piece this first section together.

P1: Climb the shallow corner through the junk to a ledge and then traverse left over to the chimney like ramp. Work your way up this fairly chossy feature staying left at the top aiming for the splitter in beautiful sandstone above. Fire the hands and wide hands splitter to the rest where the true work begins. Sky hammer the #3 1/2 Camalot, dead vertical splitter above to the pod.
(5.11) 90' +/-.

P2: Thrutch up more of the same (5.11) if you can get past the first 15 feet this crack begins to narrow down again and you will be rewarded with 60 more feet of thin hands and hands. Save a thin fingers piece for the final move as the rock deteriorates bigtime at the very top.

P3: This was climbed up into the chimney and then reversed, where it became obvious that one would be forced to climb through a massive amount of bird poo. Not recomended!

Location

This gem is on the opposit side of the buttress that the "Ribbed Buttress" is on. Park at the Ribbed Buttress parking lot, walk 5 minutes up the road, 5th class the first 10', and walk the bench to the base.

Protection

Doubles from a #00 TCU to #4 Camalot / triples in the #0.75 - #3 1/2 Camalot size / nuts / long runners / 70 meter rope.

Photos

rkrum
Here and there
 
rkrum   Here and there
 
This felt remarkably similar to Wiggins I, spread out over 200ft and interspersed with more interesting cruxes. The recommended rack is good, but when I read "sky hammer the 3.5 Camalot splitter", I was expecting, well, a fist crack.... Good times nonetheless. Also, I placed a bomber 0.5 and 0.75 at the very top of the good rock on P2, instead of fingers pieces in crumbly rock.

Perhaps it is just me being new to the area, but it felt worth mentioning that the leader probably should carry a nut tool. I only brought mine on the first pitch (and used it almost every move). At the top of P2, I found myself wishing I hadn't left it clipped to the anchor on P1.

I was impressed with the great value this route had to offer, especially for roadside afternoon cragging in the summer. I look forward to discovering what else this area has to offer.... Jul 11, 2018

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