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Routes in Fruita Canyon

Balanced Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1-
Ballerina (right of Taper) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Book of Pleasure, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+
Harvest Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left of Special Verdict T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oliver Perry Smith Buttress T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ribbed Buttress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1
Special Verdict T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taper (unknown) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Z-Row Gravity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Luke Laeser, Jon Butler, 1995
Page Views: 402 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Jan 30, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Looks like there is 30 feet of chossy Chinle. Possibly belay there. Continue up the corner and move right under the roof to anchors. There could be a second pitch.

Per Matthew Seymour:
Pitch 1: 5.10 R
Start up chossy, unprotected, but easier climbing through a Chinle layer up to a roof in better rock with a crack that can be protected. Pass the roof and gain a large ledge below the dihedral.

Pitch 2: 5.11
Move up the dihedral with some varied climbing from thin hands through an offwidth section. The climbing then steepens and moves through thin hands up to the body length roof. Pass the roof with hands, and turn the corner. Move up through some finger-sized moves and then through some hard moves where the crack is flaring, and gain the anchors.

Pitch 3: 5.10
Continue up the crack system through varied jamming. The crux of this pitch is off fingers and fingers. Gain a ledge on the right. Two double rope raps to the ground.

This climb is not as good as it looks from the ground. The first pitch is as loose as it looks. The second and third are not in the best quality Windgate. They have lots of loose and sandy rock. There is also an incredible amount of bird feces in the crack below the roof. Overall, this climb is three pitches of the kind of desert climbing you usually reserve for reaching the top of a tower.

Location

300 yds past the OPSB.

Protection

Looks to be small hands to hands.

Per Matthew Seymour: singles in tips and an offwidth piece. Doubles in hand sizes. Triple in fingers up through tight hands.

Photos

- No Photos -
Matthew Seymour
1996 Dodge Van, USA
  5.11 PG13
Matthew Seymour   1996 Dodge Van, USA
  5.11 PG13
Harvest Moon
FA: Luke Laeser, Jon Butler, 1995

Pitch 1: 5.10 R
Start up chossy, unprotected, but easier climbing through a Chinle layer up to a roof in better rock with a crack that can be protected. Pass the roof and gain a large ledge below the dihedral.

Pitch 2: 5.11
Move up the dihedral with some varied climbing from thin hands through an offwidth section. The climbing then steepens and moves through thin hands up to the body length roof. Pass the roof with hands, and turn the corner. Move up through some finger-sized moves and then through some hard moves where the crack is flaring, and gain the anchors.

Pitch 3: 5.10
Continue up the crack system through varied jamming. The crux of this pitch is off fingers and fingers. Gain a ledge on the right. Two double rope raps to the ground.

This climb is not as good as it looks from the ground. The first pitch is as loose as it looks. The second and third are not in the best quality Windgate. They have lots of loose and sandy rock. There is also an incredible amount of bird feces in the crack below the roof. Overall this climb is three pitches of the kind of desert climbing you usually reserve for reaching the top of a tower.

Pro: Singles in tips and an offwidth piece. Doubles in hand sizes. Triple in fingers up through tight hands. Aug 19, 2007