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Ballerina (right of Taper)
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 0.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Fruita Canyon
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Balanced Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1- |
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Ballerina (right of Taper) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Book of Pleasure, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+ |
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Harvest Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Left of Special Verdict T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oliver Perry Smith Buttress T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ribbed Buttress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Special Verdict T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Squeeze Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Taper (unknown) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Z-Row Gravity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 497 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Garhart on Aug 11, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description
Same start as Taper, but stay right, in the dihedral. Easy climbing gains a good ledge, then awkward stems with the curving offwidth and right facing dihedral gain the anchors. More difficult for shorter people.
Protection
Thin seams and offwidth make pro difficult. Can be toproped from Taper. Micro-stoppers and ballnutz (2 sets) provide adequate protection. A #5 Camalot can be placed in the curved offwidth just below the crux. Double anchor with old slings and double rap ring power point.
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