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Routes in Fruita Canyon

Balanced Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1-
Ballerina (right of Taper) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Book of Pleasure, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+
Harvest Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Left of Special Verdict T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Oliver Perry Smith Buttress T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ribbed Buttress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1
Special Verdict T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Box T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Taper (unknown) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Z-Row Gravity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rick Linkert, Tom Kaufman, 1972
Page Views: 1,558 total · 11/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Jan 6, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a sweet route right off the road but only if you like things on the chunky side. It has a great wide crack corner on perfect chocolate, strenuous laybacking, and straight in thrutching on good stone. There are 2 pitches with no anchor at the top.

P1: Climb up through the wideness, passing several fixed anchors (retrobolts) and a wild imposing chimney roof, continue thrutching upwards to a good ledge with a two pin anchor.

P2: Crux! Climb more wideness, thrutch to the top. There are no anchors. Walk off down a descent gully or sling the skinny tree and go back the way you came.

Location

Oliver Perry Smith Buttress is on the first bank of cliffs right of the Monument's West entrance kiosk. On the right is a prominent recess formed by left- and right-facing corners this route ascends the left corner.

Protection

Single Friends from #1 - #3.5, 4-5 #4 Camalots, 2 #5 Camalots.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d R
This is a pretty good desert route. When I say that, recall that I am invoking implications of some soft rock, some wide stuff, some guidebook mis-info, and a little endemic adventure. If that is fun, this is a very good route.
Desert Rock III suggests that the route is 350'. It is not. P1 is 115'. P2 is something LESS than 100'. So the route is nearer 200' than 350'.
The 5.10 grade suggested by Desert Rock III might be a little soft- I believe it fails to consider the "boulder problems" required to get into either pitch. The first few moves, in classic desert style, are not included in the rating.
The anchor count is off. The top half of the first pitch sports 3 consecutive anchors including one that appears just as you exit the chimney and you'll be happy to have it. So have all the more runners!
You can't rap the route as Desert Rock III suggests- or at least you couldn't. We did, because I put a long leash on a solid tree up top and did so. We hadn't taken appropriate footwear to walk and my partner's shoe split off on P2. So we rapped. Booty the webbing and biners or upgrade. DO NOT LOWER FROM THIS without inspecting it on top. God knows, desert creatures chew, and it sucks to die for no good reason. Top out! Then if you must lower/rap, back it up.

As for the rack- well, take whatever big cams you've got... and can borrow! Take a #2 and #3 Camalots for in the back of the chimney (and 2 long runners for each) then 2 #4 Camalots (old or new) and on up. New #5 was a critical size for us. The largest cams were actually less needed, as the cliff had fixed pins in that size and the feet were better in the 7" sections.
The area above the star drive on the top of P2 is some god-awful rock. Enjoy it- remember the thing about summit routes in the desert- the reason why that is the top is because everything above that was so bad it fell off. Apr 4, 2010
I ran across this site recently, and it brought back some great memories. When Tom and I did the first ascent, it was, of course, the dark ages before cams. The first pitch had no pro above the roof to the belay. I was very relieved to get to that ledge. We did not place any bolts on the pitch; it sounds like someone placed a few next to the OW. On the second pitch, I placed a Star Drive-In that I could pull out with my fingers. The rock near the top is like stacked newspapers. I remember taking a long time to work up the nerve to climb the last bit as the pro was questionable. I vividly remember grabbing a little pine at the top as the sun was setting. 40 years goes by quick. The desert is very special.

Cheers

Rick Mar 21, 2012

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