Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Dracula Direct
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in South End
|
A Different School of Thought T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Blood On The Tracks T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Candy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Daydream, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Dracula (aka Dracula Beach) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Dracula Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
|
|
Drop Zone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Ecstasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Fine Young Cannibals T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Gumby Patrol, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
La Bella Vista T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
La Bella Vista: Lotus variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Muscle Beach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Nightwings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Satisfaction 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13 |
|
|
Shambler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Simple J Malarkey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Sixth Sense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Southwest Buttress Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Spinnaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Superstition T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Tony's Nightmare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
|
|
Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Welcome to Seneca T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Wild Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| GPS: | 38.83377, -79.36693 |
| FA: | Porter Jarrard 1991 |
| Page Views: | 480 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Will Alford on Mar 20, 2022 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
Description
Probably the longest single pitch at Seneca and a wildly exposed one at that! The route shares the same start as Dracula (Beach) and begins by traversing left underneath a roof past a couple of pieces of gear to reach the first few bolts. However, instead of continuing left to merge with the crux of Muscle Beach after the second bolt, continue straight up past the third bolt and the small roof through a very cruxy and athletic sequence of slopers, crimps, and dead points. Once you've reached the fourth bolt the hardest section of climbing is done but the route doesn't exactly let up. From here the route continues with sustained and varied 5.11 climbing but it becomes significantly more runout (very big but clean falls) between the bolts with zero good gear options until you reach the sixth and final bolt. After the sixth bolt the climbing backs off and the route continues to the top of the cliff on gear. Make sure to bring lots of long alpine draws or rope drag will be an issue.
1 Comment