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Routes in South End

A Different School of Thought T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood On The Tracks T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Candy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daydream, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Drop Zone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ecstasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fine Young Cannibals T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
La Bella Vista T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Bella Vista: Lotus variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Muscle Beach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightwings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Satisfaction 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Shambler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Simple J Malarky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sixth Sense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southwest Buttress Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinnaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Superstition T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
T & T T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tony's Nightmare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Seneca T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Wild Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Faint, et al.
Page Views: 24,564 total, 186/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Ecstasy is a classic, steep, exposed line that protects well. A perfect route for aspiring trad leaders.

P1: Begin at the far left end of the South End and climb up a 25' chimney to a large ledge. Continue up a white face to a belay stance beneath a roof.

P2: Step right and ascend a wide crack, then continue traversing right while the wall below you disappears. Climb up a broken system to a belay at some fixed gear.

P3: Traverse right again and then head up very steep rock to a good ledge and belay from a tree.

Protection

Standard rack.
Spencer Perry
  5.7
Spencer Perry  
  5.7
There is a pigeon nesting just up and left from the P2 belay that kept dive bombing us while we were at the belay and while leading P3. Jul 10, 2017
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7
I thought this climb was a lot of fun. Definitely on the soft side for a Seneca 7, but great position on the 2nd and 3rd pitch, good pro the whole way. Not a visually distinct line from the ground, but follows the path of least resistance. Jun 23, 2017
paul.adams.3
Knoxville, TN
 
paul.adams.3   Knoxville, TN
 
2 fixed nuts and a fixed pin for p2 belay as of July '16. For P3, I headed left towards a decent tree at the top and found #2 and #4 placements in a crack just left and below the tree. No problems finding an anchor up there. Easy walk off to finish. Each pitch was sustained and fun. Lots of exposure! I can't say if it measures up to other classics, but I highly enjoyed this route. Aug 2, 2016
Fan - I agree, the 4" tree at the top of pitch 3 is not super confidence-inspiring, although I think it is probably adequate in its current condition. I approached this in a perhaps complicated but efficient enough manner this weekend. After topping out I continued up to one of the larger trees 30' from the edge, fixed the rope, and then used a grigri back to the edge. I then belayed off of the small tree and backed that up with rope past my grigri. Oct 18, 2015
Fan Zhang
Washington, DC
  5.7
Fan Zhang   Washington, DC
  5.7
Does anyone have recommendations for where to build an anchor after topping out of pitch 3? The 12-16" dead pine and 3-4" live pine that are immediately right of the top out don't inspire much confidence.

Nice hand jams on pitch 1. Big exposure on P2. Build semi-hanging belay at end of P2 at fixed pin with a ring on it, backed up with a nut on top and additional fixed pin. Pitch 3 gets easier after bulge.

Make sure the weather is cool enough when you climb this because of the full on sun exposure. Aug 17, 2015
If you are in to having fun while climbing, plugging gear nearly whenever you like, and not taking the stairs to the south face, then this route if perfect. Jul 14, 2015
Jeff Klassen
Eppstein, DE
 
Jeff Klassen   Eppstein, DE
 
Mistakenly (got a bit excited to be on the route) linked P1 and P2. Made for some long climbing and "heavy" rope drag. Oct 7, 2013
Great exposure but very underwhelming as a Seneca 7. Dufty's and West Pole, for example, are way nicer lines. Sep 30, 2013
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.6
Joe Hunt   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.6
Thought it was classic and super steep for the grade. Soft rating, though... maybe a 7- or a 6 even. Sep 30, 2011
CDC
CDC  
Ecstasy can be done in two pitches with a 70 meter rope. Sep 20, 2011
Ross Purnell
Palmyra
 
Ross Purnell   Palmyra
 
This is probably my least favorite Seneca 5.7. The second belay station sucks. You can bypass it and go all the way to the top, but it's hell trying to communicate with your second.
It's too much traversing and not enough upward climbing, and the rock is funky.
Compare this to great lines like West Pole and it just doesn't cut it as a classic. Ecstasy Junior is more esthetically pleasing, and you can rap down to your bags afterward. Aug 17, 2010
Josh Smethers
Malvern, pa
  5.7 PG13
Josh Smethers   Malvern, pa
  5.7 PG13
Tons of fun and super exposed! You can really sew it up too, if you feel nervous. The third pitch is powerful, but "it's all there" as they say. Apr 11, 2010
attila  
My guidebook describes this as something like "exciting but never outrageous". That's a perfect description. There's one spot on P2 where your only pro option is an old piton. Other pitons are in spots where you can place your own gear and not rely on these god-only-knows fixed pieces. There are no bail-out points without losing gear. Once on, you're committed. So climb with a proven partner! This climb is wonderful, do it even if you have to wait. Rappel from Ecstasy Jr. just around the corner. Apr 11, 2010
Matty Zane
Freedom
Matty Zane   Freedom
Lines? I have climbed this route 3 times, and not once have I had to wait in line. It is a must do in my opinion. Be carful with the old pins. Apr 17, 2009
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
Overrated, in my opinion. Mar 1, 2009
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
My first climb at Seneca Rocks. I just led this Again. I really think this is one of the best 5.7's anywhere. The traversing P2 and P3 is outstanding, pretty darn good exposure as the route traverses above the big cave. Feb 19, 2008
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
  5.6
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
  5.6
Of the Seneca Sevens, Ecstasy is the closet to the road, the least vertical approach, most over-hyped, and probably the easiest. If you want to climb Ecstasy be prepared to wait at the base of the route, and then at every belay station. Depending on the party ahead of you the three pitches could take half of the day. If the party ahead of you is really testing your patience you might want to bail onto the Southwest corner or some other route around on the west face. That being said, Ecstasy is an ok route with no/little loose rock and ok fixed gear. Feb 8, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.7
This is a great intro to Seneca at a moderate level. It gives you a feel for what is special about the place without climbing too hard or wandering around too far before getting the feel of it. Jan 19, 2007