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Routes in South End

A Different School of Thought T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood On The Tracks T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Candy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daydream, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Drop Zone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ecstasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fine Young Cannibals T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
La Bella Vista T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Bella Vista: Lotus variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Muscle Beach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightwings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Satisfaction 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Shambler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Simple J Malarky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sixth Sense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southwest Buttress Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinnaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Superstition T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
T & T T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tony's Nightmare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Seneca T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Wild Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Stannard, 1971
Page Views: 1,779 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 1, 2008 with updates
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

P1: Climb the low angle buttress to reach the shuts under the large obvious Totem roof (5.5).

P2: From the belay, head up and left passing several pitons to reach the crack in the roof. Back up the pins as good as possible, but use caution not to steal your key handholds with gear. Pull the roof(crux), to gain a stance. Anchors are up and to the left. (30 ft).

P3: This is a great pitch, it's even worth aiding the roof to do this long pitch. From the belay, head straight up the buttress, passing several small overhangs with great gear and wonderful moves. (150 ft)

Location

Locate the large cave on the south end and head east toward Candy Corner and Ye Gods. This will be the first buttress that you come to.

Protection

Standard Seneca Rack, shuts at top of pitch 1 and pitch 2.

Photos

Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.11a
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.11a
It's almost like there should be a second entry for this route for the P1 that everyone does and then the rest of the route.

The glue-ins at the end of P1 are for this route. You can use the cold-shuts to the left if you want to rig a TR, but the glue-ins are the anchors to continue up.

Pulling the crux roof is a height-related move...harder to get up and stick the bomber hand-jam if you're short because you need to get your feet up first. You can back up the pin in the roof crack with a C3 next to the pin (there are two pins total in this section).

The third pitch cruises up some 5.7/8 rock through a series of right-leaning corners and little overhangs. Good exposure and fun moves. There is a final overhang to pull (5.7ish) before it backs off to the top (the 4th pitch). Just below this overhang is another set of cold-shuts that are the anchors for the 3rd pitch. You can descend from these shuts to the set above the crux overhang and then rap to the ground.

Topping out the route makes for a long pitch from the anchor above the crux overhang and puts you in an interesting no-mans land so be prepared to scramble up to the Luncheon Ledge area. Be careful of loose rock at the top.

Overall it's an interesting climb that will get you away from anyone else on a busy weekend. At roughly 285ft in length it's one of the longest lines at Seneca behind Conn's East (~350ft), Prune (~310ft) and Pleasant Overhangs (~295ft). Nov 12, 2014
Alex Mandrila
Boulder, CO
 
Alex Mandrila   Boulder, CO
 
The first pitch (5.5) makes a great first lead or toprope for new climbers. Also, I confused the glue-ins at the top as the anchors for this route. There are shuts slightly to the left. Sep 16, 2014