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Routes in South End

A Different School of Thought T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood On The Tracks T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Candy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daydream, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Drop Zone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ecstasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fine Young Cannibals T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
La Bella Vista T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Bella Vista: Lotus variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Muscle Beach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightwings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Satisfaction 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Shambler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Simple J Malarky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sixth Sense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southwest Buttress Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinnaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Superstition T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
T & T T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tony's Nightmare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Seneca T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Wild Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,806 total, 25/month
Shared By: MauryB on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Wonderful route, super-aesthetic both in rock quality and position on the exposed arete. Very stout climbing for the grade and easy to blow the onsight if you get antsy.

Location

Prominent bolted face/arete above Ye Gods and Candy Corner belay. Climb either of those routes and either belay from the two bolt belay on the ledge or climb up the gully a bit further to establish a trad anchor below the line of bolts up the face/arete which is Spinnaker. Stepping out from the gully make a few committing moves up and right to clip the first bolt on the face.

Protection

Depending on where you belay from may want few pieces (.75-2 Camalot) to protect the climbing up to the first bolt. 8ish bolts to shuts. Can rap back to Ye Gods bolted belay with a single 60m rope.

Photos

I must eat humble pie here. Years ago, I climbed Spinnaker clean. This was, indeed, when it was graded 10c in the old Tony Barnes guide. I tried it again this past autumn and failed miserably. The move at the 2nd bolt was too much for me. It has since been upgraded to 11a, which I think is fair. Then again, what is fair at Seneca Rocks. I couldn't finish it...I admit it...I'm getting old. We all got limits, right?!! I love watching you young climbers, get it while you can. See you on the rocks! Feb 21, 2016
BrianWS
  5.10+
BrianWS  
  5.10+
Just climbed this from the Ye Gods belay ledge. What a beautiful climb, with serious exposure. 10+ or 11- is fair grade. Although the bulk of it is bolted, this is not a sport route -- the access routes are all gear, and a substantial bit of gear is needed to get to the first bolt.

A few notes:

-From the ledge, the pitch is close to a full 120ft - a 70m will just barely get you back to the anchors. Building an anchor at the base of the cracks 15 left of the belay would be better than belaying from the bolt anchor.

-You will need at least around 4 pieces to get to the first bolt without any major runouts (about 40 or 50 ft from the belay). There is a solid (looking) fixed pin at about 20-30ft up if climbing from the Ye Gods anchor.

-The bolted section is very well protected by "Seneca standards", but be aware that all are very rusted, pitted, and look to be in quite bad shape. Feb 22, 2014
MauryB
Boulder, CO
 
MauryB   Boulder, CO
 
"Seneca standards," eh? And here I was thinking the point of the YDS was a universal standard by which to rate the relativity difficulty of routes across the country/world. How mistaken I was. Jan 28, 2014
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
Gets 11 in the newer guidebook(s). Can't speak to it's actual difficulty as i've never tried it, but i feel like .10c at Seneca IS 11. Calm down i'm joking. Jan 10, 2014
When was this upgraded to 11? This was 10c for years, and definitely is not an 11 by Seneca standards, IMHO. Jun 24, 2013