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Routes in South End

A Different School of Thought T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood On The Tracks T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Candy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daydream, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Drop Zone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ecstasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fine Young Cannibals T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
La Bella Vista T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Bella Vista: Lotus variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Muscle Beach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightwings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Satisfaction 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Shambler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Simple J Malarky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sixth Sense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southwest Buttress Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinnaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Superstition T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
T & T T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tony's Nightmare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Seneca T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Wild Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Bradt, Don Hubbard, Sam Moore 1939
Page Views: 1,806 total · 21/month
Shared By: Andy Weinmann on Oct 18, 2011
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

A good alternate to getting up to the Skyline Traverse belay ledge when Ye Gods and Little Fishes and/or Candy Corner are busy. The original line is a wide crack/chimney and a good lead for up and coming trad leaders.

P1: (V1) Climb up through broken, sloping rock to a large pine tree. Pass the pine on the left and continue straight up to a good-sized flat area with loose rock just below the obvious left-facing corner. The first pitch fin of La Bella Vista will be to your left. There's a block here you can sling with a cordelette for an anchor (you can also get to this spot from the start of Skyline Traverse by moving left around the big flake feature on the ledge at the start of the main Skyline crack).

P2 (original route): (V2) (V3) Step out left, under La Bella Vista's fin and move left into a chimney with a steep ramp further to the left. Climb the chimney and ramp to the top and up to the Skyline Traverse two-bolt anchor. Take a few large pieces.

V1: (5.3) Alternative start: Start on the east side, below the start of Skyline Traverse.  When coming up the last bit of the approach trail near the rocks, instead of following the right turn, continue straight in front of you to the wall, scramble left a little to a nice little ledge and locate a short left-facing corner.  From here it's a short distance up to the same flat spot with a block to sling that's mentioned above.  This alternate start makes it a straight shot up to the 5.7 variation (V2) or to climb the short, blocky section and then bail out right (V3).

V2: (5.7) Go straight up from the belay past a short, blocky section and follow the inside corner, passing two cruxy bulges (2nd is harder). There are good passive pro options throughout. Continue up until you can step right onto a ledge. ~5.7. Once at that stance, there's a good high piece you can place to help with rope drag. Either build a belay further right on the ledge at your feet or boulder up (sparse pro/5.7ish moves) to the Skyline Traverse bolts.

V3: (5.3) Move up a short, blocky section to a good stance.  Step right and around the corner of the huge flake in front of you to a good ledge.  Continue traversing right and end at the start of the crack on Skyline Traverse's first pitch.

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Location

About 15-20 feet right (down) from the start of Candy Corner at the base of a large tree. There is a well-stomped out, flat area here.

You can rap from the Skyline Traverse anchors but why not continue up another route? From the top of this you can link to Skyline Traverse, Dufty's Popoff, Kauffman-Cardon, etc on the Southeast Corner.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack. Bring some small nuts for the first piece or two on P2...there isn't much there. Hexes work well on this climb.  If doing the original route, a large piece or two is helpful (#4 or #5 cam).
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.5
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.5
After looking through Tony's guides and climbing around this corner a good deal, I've finally figured out what's what in this area. LSD has two variations to the main chimney line that I believe was the original line. The pic that I posted shows what I always thought of as "LSD", but is actually a variation. I've found it to be a generally clean corner that feels about 5.7. The face and crack system to the left I have always assumed to be Skylab (5.9) and the outside buttress/arete to be P1 of La Bella Vista (5.10a). Addressing Mark's comment below....at the crux bulge there is some questionable rock, but you can get great gear under the bulge in solid rock. You pull a few moderate moves (5.6/7ish) to get over the bulge and get yourself situated to throw in more gear. Some of the face features left of the bulge are a bit rotten, so tread lightly on those. Otherwise, most of the climb is pretty solid. It's Seneca...expect it to be PG climbing.

Another option moves right from the start of LSD's P2 and traverses over to join Skyline Traverse near the start of that climb.

The original line goes left from the P2 belay and climbs a wide crack/chimney to the Skyline Traverse Ledge. Take a couple large pieces (4-5"). Oct 27, 2011
Mark Maier
  5.5 PG13
Mark Maier  
  5.5 PG13
The one thing this route has going for it is that it probably will be free on a busy afternoon when all the known routes have lines on them. It appears you can get on this route from either the west or east side of the buttress. We came in from the east side and went up the whole corner system in one rope length. While the holds are positive and there is plenty of gear things sounded hollow and various holds creaked. It seemed pretty loose to me. Sep 29, 2012

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