Lower Skyline Direct (LSD)
Avg: 2.1 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Paul Bradt, Don Hubbard, Sam Moore 1939|
|Page Views:||1,668 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Weinmann on Oct 18, 2011|
|Admins:||Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionA good alternate to getting up to the Skyline Traverse belay ledge when Ye Gods and Little Fishes and/or Candy Corner are busy. The original line is a wide crack/chimney and a good lead for up and coming trad leaders.
P1: Climb up through broken, sloping rock to a large pine tree. Pass the pine on the left and continue straight up a short, blocky section to a good-sized flat area with loose rock just below the obvious left-facing corner. The first pitch fin of La Bella Vista will be to your left. There's a block here you can sling with a cordelette for an anchor (you can also get to this spot from the start of Skyline Traverse by moving left around the big flake feature on the ledge at the start of the main Skyline crack).
P2 (original route): Step out left, under La Bella Vista's fin and move left into a chimney with a steep ramp further to the left. Climb the chimney and ramp to the top and up to the Skyline Traverse two-bolt anchor. Take a few large pieces.
A good variation to Pitch 2 is to basically go straight up from the belay and follow the corner, passing two cruxy bulges (2nd is harder). There are good passive pro options throughout. Continue up until you can step right onto a ledge. ~5.7. Once at that stance, there's a good high piece you can place to help with rope drag. Either build a belay further right on the ledge at your feet or boulder up (sparse pro/5.7ish moves) to the Skyline Traverse bolts.
Another variation is to step out right and move around the flake to the start of Skyline Traverse's initial crack.
LocationAbout 15-20 feet right (down) from the start of Candy Corner at the base of a large tree. There is a well-stomped out, flat area here.
You can rap from the Skyline Traverse anchors but why not continue up another route? From the top of this you can link to Skyline Traverse, Dufty's Popoff, Kauffman-Cardon, etc on the Southeast Corner.