Type: Trad, 190 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Matt,Hale, Ray Snead
Page Views: 2,709 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 24, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

This is a great route that may be overlooked due to the crappy looking rock and position for the start. P1: Climb up the face/corner to reach the roof. Traverse out left 10 Ft.(crux) to reach a shallow right facing corner and then up to the shuts. P2: Climb past several small overhangs and pass the traverse on Ecstasy to large right facing corner. P3. Follow to the top. This is a great route, and P1 can be done and you can easily lower from the shuts. Stays relatively dry in a light rain.

Location

Start 15 Ft. left of Muscle Beach start just left of the right facing corner.

Protection

Standard rack. Some smaller cams are nice for the traverse under the roof on P1.

Photos

Timothy Beecher
College Park
 
Timothy Beecher   College Park
 
I would recommend double ropes on this route to reduce rope drag. Very fun climb! Sep 17, 2012
ARMoss
  5.10a
ARMoss  
  5.10a
I've led the first pitch twice, now, and thought the crux (the traverse through the roof) was hard to protect well both times - I had gear in, but didn't like the idea of falling on it. The rest of the climb is 5.fun, with the stoutest climbing (that I found) coming 2/3 of the way up the second pitch right after the Ecstasy traverse. With a 70m rope, you can run the second pitch all the way to the top. A great line! Two ropes definitely makes it easier. May 5, 2014
Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
I've fallen on that gear at the traverse. It's good. Apr 14, 2017