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Routes in South End

A Different School of Thought T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood On The Tracks T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Candy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daydream, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Drop Zone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ecstasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fine Young Cannibals T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
La Bella Vista T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Bella Vista: Lotus variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Muscle Beach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightwings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Satisfaction 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Shambler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Simple J Malarky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sixth Sense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southwest Buttress Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinnaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Superstition T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
T & T T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tony's Nightmare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Seneca T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Wild Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Matt,Hale, Ray Snead
Page Views: 2,471 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 24, 2007
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great route that may be overlooked due to the crappy looking rock and position for the start. P1: Climb up the face/corner to reach the roof. Traverse out left 10 Ft.(crux) to reach a shallow right facing corner and then up to the shuts. P2: Climb past several small overhangs and pass the traverse on Ecstasy to large right facing corner. P3. Follow to the top. This is a great route, and P1 can be done and you can easily lower from the shuts. Stays relatively dry in a light rain.

Location

Start 15 Ft. left of Muscle Beach start just left of the right facing corner.

Protection

Standard rack. Some smaller cams are nice for the traverse under the roof on P1.

Photos

Seth Derr
harrisburg, pa
 
Seth Derr   harrisburg, pa
 
I've fallen on that gear at the traverse. It's good. Apr 14, 2017
ARMoss
  5.10a
ARMoss  
  5.10a
I've led the first pitch twice, now, and thought the crux (the traverse through the roof) was hard to protect well both times - I had gear in, but didn't like the idea of falling on it. The rest of the climb is 5.fun, with the stoutest climbing (that I found) coming 2/3 of the way up the second pitch right after the Ecstasy traverse. With a 70m rope, you can run the second pitch all the way to the top. A great line! Two ropes definitely makes it easier. May 5, 2014
Timothy Beecher
College Park
 
Timothy Beecher   College Park
 
I would recommend double ropes on this route to reduce rope drag. Very fun climb! Sep 17, 2012