Thunderhead

Head straight up extremely-conglomerate small-holds face but veer right to the third bolt away from that first appealing anchor. Cop a rest under the crack until you decide to brave the thinner but less conglomerated territory above the bulge. Pick your beta through the manufactured slot that explains how such a blank face is doable and finish on massive jugs by the anchor.

Dixie Cragger gives this route 5.13a/b but the good rest before the crux drastically eases the route in my opinion.

Just outside the whipping post (dreamscape). Half way down Sun Wall from the parking lot. Climb is just left of Knob Wall 5.6, and overlaps with the trad line Sandburger.

5 bolts to 3-bolt anchor each with a medium, slightly rusty quick link.

The whole climb has the vibe of Whammy 12b.

First three bolts are cryptic 5.11 to a no-hands/fingers rest. If it feels harder then you didn't find the right holds.

Roof to headwall crux goes around V5 or V6 after the no-hands rest.

Short beta for crux, lift a high right foot before shooting to the positive slot.
Tall beta for crux, keep a right foot under the roof peak and make long move to positive slot.

Next options:
1 High left heel hook to high left reach. Adjust right foot hold/smear to enable reach to the high left sidepull.

2 Go to the high left sidepull but with a RHS flag.

3 Cross left hand past the slot to the sloper on the right. move right hand to the awkward undercling farther right or to the top right side pull. High step and grab jug.

4 Another idea I never tried would involve matching the slot to get your left hand in, then skipping the sloper and then use the side pull(s) to the right. Matching/swapping would be the new crux, but the rest would be far easier.

The 4th bolt has a newer second bolt up left of it, but note if you hang the newer one you obscure a foothold for later.