Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Rich Gottlieb, 1978
Page Views: 3,742 total · 28/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

Climb up a boulder to a large, right-facing, conglomerated flake from hell. Head to the top of the flake, then up the overhanging, right-leaning finger crack. Finish up the overhanging face to anchors at the top.

Location

Left side of the left-most section of the Sun Wall. On the left side of the "amphitheater" that Misty is in.

Protection

fists to fingers, bolts and rings at the top

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Not recommended for the 5.9 leader. The last few moves to the anchors requires you to place a piece of gear from a near horizontal position. This I believe would be way too strenuous for someone new at the grade. A fall from below the anchor could result in a ledge fall or a wicked pendulum. Jan 2, 2012
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
 
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
 
Protect as high as you can reach from the last good stance above the ledge (hint...stem up another few feet). Clip short then run for the top. Avoids the last placement from a terrible position and just might keep you off the ledge if you don't get the anchors clipped. A large stopper works well for this. Top out for full value. Jan 21, 2013
Michael Dom
  5.9+
Michael Dom  
  5.9+
Good warm up. Bring a 2, .75, 2 .5's, and a tcu red c3 or blue metolius for the top. Getting on to the face for the hand jam move feels heady but isn't too bad. Jan 18, 2016