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Routes in Sun Wall

Abandoned Ship S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ale 81 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bocephus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Burly Girls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack in the Sky T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Curly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disneyland S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Crusher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dreamscape S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamworld S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
First Black in Space T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glasstic T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hey Y'all -- Watch This! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
How's Your Love Life? S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knob Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Land of Silk and Money S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Larry T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen This S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lip Service S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Liquid Spirit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Midget Digits S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Misty S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moe T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Muffins are Burning S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nick of Time S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Nothingness S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Pop Tarts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Popular Science (Golden Flake) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pressure Sensitive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Vacant S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rant S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silent Lucidity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sneakers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Grover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarzan S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wall of Horns TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Whammy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windows T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
unknown 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Rich Gottlieb, 1978
Page Views: 3,395 total, 28/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

Climb up a boulder to a large, right-facing, conglomerated flake from hell. Head to the top of the flake, then up the overhanging, right-leaning finger crack. Finish up the overhanging face to anchors at the top.

Location

Left side of the left-most section of the Sun Wall. On the left side of the "amphitheater" that Misty is in.

Protection

fists to fingers, bolts and rings at the top

Photos

Michael Dom
  5.9+
Michael Dom  
  5.9+
Good warm up. Bring a 2, .75, 2 .5's, and a tcu red c3 or blue metolius for the top. Getting on to the face for the hand jam move feels heady but isn't too bad. Jan 18, 2016
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
 
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
 
Protect as high as you can reach from the last good stance above the ledge (hint...stem up another few feet). Clip short then run for the top. Avoids the last placement from a terrible position and just might keep you off the ledge if you don't get the anchors clipped. A large stopper works well for this. Top out for full value. Jan 21, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Not recommended for the 5.9 leader. The last few moves to the anchors requires you to place a piece of gear from a near horizontal position. This I believe would be way too strenuous for someone new at the grade. A fall from below the anchor could result in a ledge fall or a wicked pendulum. Jan 2, 2012