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Routes in Sun Wall

Abandoned Ship S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ale 81 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bocephus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Burly Girls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack in the Sky T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Curly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disneyland S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Crusher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dreamscape S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamworld S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
First Black in Space T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glasstic T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hey Y'all -- Watch This! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
How's Your Love Life? S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knob Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Land of Silk and Money S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Larry T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen This S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lip Service S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Liquid Spirit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Midget Digits S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Misty S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moe T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Muffins are Burning S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nick of Time S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Nothingness S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Pop Tarts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Popular Science (Golden Flake) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pressure Sensitive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Vacant S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rant S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silent Lucidity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sneakers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Grover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarzan S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wall of Horns TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Whammy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windows T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
unknown 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

With its southern exposure, the aptly-named Sun Wall is a great place to climb in the winter (and to be avoided in the hot summer months). This cliffline runs parallel to the road into Sand Rock, and in many places you'll see roadside campsites across the way after topping out. The wall is actually a series of free-standing towers detached from the main wall; in many places, the gap is narrow enough to jump across and hike back down to the trail.

The Sun Wall is best known for great sport routes like Misty, but there's also a number of fine trad lines here as well. It's also a good place to get away from the crowds at the Pinnacle and Holiday Block.

Getting There

From the parking lot, cut left before heading to the Pinnacle/Holiday block areas; follow a trail down the hill and to the left until you reach the base of the cliff.

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sun Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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BJ Null  
If walls of horns is the route down and right of the horns, what is the bolted line straight up if you stem the column?

Three or four bolts straight up the stem line, then chains up and slightly left.

What is this line? May 3, 2017
spellstrike
Duluth
spellstrike   Duluth
Sunwall is detached from the walk up/off. I was able to set a top rope on Popular Science which is on the lake facing sunwall by rapping off nearby wall to get across deep/wide chasm to a lower ledge safely with a rope and some cams in a pocket so that a spooky jump wasn't needed. Dec 20, 2016
Siberia
Birmingham, AL
Siberia   Birmingham, AL
When walking from the Sandtrap towards Larry/Moe/Curly there is a small trail that goes down hill to the right. It almost looks like water runoff. Take the right then the trail forks and go left. There's a 40 foot face that has five routes with anchors. From left to right they are probably 7/8?..7..6..9..11-. I only climbed the first 7/8,6, and 9. Some guys were working the harder route and said it was 11b.

It's a great spot for some first sport leads. The routes are short, well protected, close to each other.

The first 7/8? has a dead point/dyno to a jug at the top to clip the anchors from. A very dirty crack may provide an alternative but the big move is fun.

Second rotue from left I didn't climb. From the look of it I'd guess a 7.

The 6? goes up a corner with huge buckets.

The 9+? that is to the right of the big crack is thin with good moves all the way up. Higher up you can move a bit left to big jugs but it seems off route. A two finger half pad left hand gives you a high clip unles you move left to the jugs.

The 11b? looks interesting with a low crux, some creative sidepulls, and good footwork. Stick clip needed for this one. Aug 21, 2012
Much of this wall is bone dry on really wet days. Shockingly dry. Worth the drive when you just know everything else will be wet dry. Mar 5, 2007

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