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Routes in Sun Wall

Abandoned Ship S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ale 81 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bocephus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Burly Girls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack in the Sky T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Curly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disneyland S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Crusher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dreamscape S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamworld S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
First Black in Space T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glasstic T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hey Y'all -- Watch This! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
How's Your Love Life? S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knob Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Land of Silk and Money S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Larry T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen This S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lip Service S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Liquid Spirit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Midget Digits S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Misty S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moe T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Muffins are Burning S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nick of Time S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Nothingness S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Pop Tarts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Popular Science (Golden Flake) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pressure Sensitive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Vacant S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rant S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silent Lucidity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sneakers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Grover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarzan S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wall of Horns TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Whammy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windows T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
unknown 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,513 total, 16/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Apr 7, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Don't let the fun, juggy climbing down low lull you into complacency -- there's some tricky, hard-to-protect moves toward the top.

Starting just right of a prominent boulder, pull through an overhang onto nice conglomerated knobs. If the overhang seems too hard, you can bypass it by stemming between the boulder and the wall and then transition onto the face. Continue up the face right of the blunt arete and finesse your way through slopers to reach the anchors.

About the names: This is one of three undocumented climbs on the Burly Girls pinnacle that I found myself referring to as the Three Stooges. These have been climbed for many years, but I've not been able to find anyone who knows the real names for FAs. I don't like posting "unnamed" routes, so until I learn otherwise, they are Larry, Moe and Curly.

Location

Starts just right of the corridor that leads to Pile Driver. Rap from the anchors.

Protection

Small to medium gear, with plentiful opportunities to sling horns. Bolted anchors.

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Skip all of the retro bolts. The top takes a good blue tri-cam and a sideways #4 WC rock just two feet right of the anchor to protect the last tough moves to the top. Jan 31, 2012
I lead this over the MLK weekend and was surprised to find my hoodie covered in 10-15 ticks 5 minutes after setting it on the rock that is directly beside the start of the route where the shoes are located in the bottom right of the picture. Not sure if we picked them up on the way to this area or if this particular area had a higher than normal concentration of ticks since we didn't see them anywhere else that we went at Sandrock on Sunday. Just something to look out for. Jan 17, 2012