Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,940 total · 18/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Apr 7, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Don't let the fun, juggy climbing down low lull you into complacency -- there's some tricky, hard-to-protect moves toward the top.

Starting just right of a prominent boulder, pull through an overhang onto nice conglomerated knobs. If the overhang seems too hard, you can bypass it by stemming between the boulder and the wall and then transition onto the face. Continue up the face right of the blunt arete and finesse your way through slopers to reach the anchors.

About the names: This is one of three undocumented climbs on the Burly Girls pinnacle that I found myself referring to as the Three Stooges. These have been climbed for many years, but I've not been able to find anyone who knows the real names for FAs. I don't like posting "unnamed" routes, so until I learn otherwise, they are Larry, Moe and Curly.

Location

Starts just right of the corridor that leads to Pile Driver. Rap from the anchors.

Protection

Small to medium gear, with plentiful opportunities to sling horns. Bolted anchors.

Photos

I lead this over the MLK weekend and was surprised to find my hoodie covered in 10-15 ticks 5 minutes after setting it on the rock that is directly beside the start of the route where the shoes are located in the bottom right of the picture. Not sure if we picked them up on the way to this area or if this particular area had a higher than normal concentration of ticks since we didn't see them anywhere else that we went at Sandrock on Sunday. Just something to look out for. Jan 17, 2012
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Skip all of the retro bolts. The top takes a good blue tri-cam and a sideways #4 WC rock just two feet right of the anchor to protect the last tough moves to the top. Jan 31, 2012
Mattisadude  
 
TRd. Would be a scary lead for someone at the grade. Fun and powerful Feb 7, 2018
Peter Y
Atlanta, GA
Peter Y   Atlanta, GA
If using the retrobolts higher up, you can get by with just slinging the horns as protection below. found easier moves on the arete between the last bolt and the anchors Apr 9, 2018