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Routes in Sun Wall

Abandoned Ship S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ale 81 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bocephus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Burly Girls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crack in the Sky T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Curly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disneyland S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dream Crusher S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dreamscape S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Dreamworld S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
First Black in Space T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glasstic T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hey Y'all -- Watch This! T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
How's Your Love Life? S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knob Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Land of Silk and Money S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Larry T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen This S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lip Service S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Liquid Spirit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Midget Digits S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Misty S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Moe T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Muffins are Burning S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nick of Time S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Nothingness S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Pop Tarts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Popular Science (Golden Flake) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pressure Sensitive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pretty Vacant S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rant S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rave S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silent Lucidity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slug T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sneakers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Grover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tarzan S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wall of Horns TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Whammy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Gold T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Windows T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
unknown 1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeremy Weaver - 1997
Page Views: 2,440 total, 19/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 6, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

A really fun sport route, featuring a tenuous start, thin slab/face climbing and a roof pull at the finish.

Starting next to a looming boulder, balance your way up onto the slab. Continue up to a shallow roof (protected by a bolt); pull the roof and continue to the anchors.

Location

Follow the Sun Wall trail past the Whipping Post area a good ways until you reach a section where large blocks stand between you and the main wall. Crawl between the boulders to the start of Sneakers and Eclipse (a gear route to the left of Sneakers).

Protection

5 bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos

Jason Eberhard
Atlanta, GA
  5.10a
Jason Eberhard   Atlanta, GA
  5.10a
Fun route that I'm surprised doesn't get more traffic. The start wasn't too sketch to me but does require some imagination. Probably 5.9- other than the roof move.
Start Beta: photos.app.goo.gl/rYJWpafS9… Nov 6, 2017
Nice, thin face moves up to a fun roof. We've always called this route "Whore House" before we found out the name, and we still call it that now haha. Not a bad climb, but nothing to write home about. Sep 18, 2016
Jordan Mitchell
Lookout Mountain
  5.10a
Jordan Mitchell   Lookout Mountain
  5.10a
You might want to use a longer quickdraw when clipping the bolt that protects the roof section. Jay Knower, it seems like the line does go up the slab, I was left of the bolts most of the way up to the roof section where it gets spicy. Sep 29, 2014
Geissler Golding
  5.10d
Geissler Golding  
  5.10d
Clipping the first bolt is very spicy! In retrospect, I'd stick-clip it next time. The route offers crimps with smears, slab, airy exposed arete moves, small roof and even a couple of good thin and strong face moves up top... Pretty happy to have returned to it. Note: the shuts (open) are fairly rusted, thankfully some well-meaning steward has placed two shiny new bolts w/ a chain and rap-ring - all super new. Oct 6, 2013
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
It didn't seem like the climbing route followed the bolt line. After the first bolt, I kept wandering to the right. Maybe I was just lured by the bigger holds out there. Do most people stay right of the bolts, or was I just wimping out from the thin slab climbing (which would be likely for me)? Jan 18, 2008