Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeremy Weaver - 1997
Page Views: 2,849 total · 20/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 6, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

A really fun sport route, featuring a tenuous start, thin slab/face climbing and a roof pull at the finish.

Starting next to a looming boulder, balance your way up onto the slab. Continue up to a shallow roof (protected by a bolt); pull the roof and continue to the anchors.

Location

Follow the Sun Wall trail past the Whipping Post area a good ways until you reach a section where large blocks stand between you and the main wall. Crawl between the boulders to the start of Sneakers and Eclipse (a gear route to the left of Sneakers).

Protection

5 bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
It didn't seem like the climbing route followed the bolt line. After the first bolt, I kept wandering to the right. Maybe I was just lured by the bigger holds out there. Do most people stay right of the bolts, or was I just wimping out from the thin slab climbing (which would be likely for me)? Jan 18, 2008
Geissler Golding
  5.10d
Geissler Golding  
  5.10d
Clipping the first bolt is very spicy! In retrospect, I'd stick-clip it next time. The route offers crimps with smears, slab, airy exposed arete moves, small roof and even a couple of good thin and strong face moves up top... Pretty happy to have returned to it. Note: the shuts (open) are fairly rusted, thankfully some well-meaning steward has placed two shiny new bolts w/ a chain and rap-ring - all super new. Oct 6, 2013
Jordan Mitchell
Lookout Mountain
  5.10a
Jordan Mitchell   Lookout Mountain
  5.10a
You might want to use a longer quickdraw when clipping the bolt that protects the roof section. Jay Knower, it seems like the line does go up the slab, I was left of the bolts most of the way up to the roof section where it gets spicy. Sep 29, 2014
Colton Samblis
Gautier, MS
 
Colton Samblis   Gautier, MS
 
Nice, thin face moves up to a fun roof. We've always called this route "Whore House" before we found out the name, and we still call it that now haha. Not a bad climb, but nothing to write home about. Sep 18, 2016
Jason Eberhard
Atlanta, GA
  5.10a
Jason Eberhard   Atlanta, GA
  5.10a
Fun route that I'm surprised doesn't get more traffic. The start wasn't too sketch to me but does require some imagination. Probably 5.9- other than the roof move.
Start Beta: photos.app.goo.gl/rYJWpafS9… Nov 6, 2017