Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Forrest Gardner and Shannon Stegg - 1982
Page Views: 3,168 total · 24/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Jan 30, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Climb the face on thin pockets and protrusions to the big, rectangular hole in the top of the face.

Location

In the middle of the left-most section of the Sun Wall, to the left of Misty.

Protection

not much, there are bolted anchors in the sill of the "window" for toproping

Photos

The "X" grade is correct....and the lack of pro with the crux at the top makes this feel much harder than 5.8..... be aware. Jan 15, 2012
Jcastleberry
  5.8+
Jcastleberry  
  5.8+
IMO the "X" rating is incorrect. There are solid placements at least every 8 feet. Bring a set of nuts and cams to a red Camalot and sew it up. Dec 8, 2013
Ernesto Pichardo
New Orleans, Louisiana
 
Ernesto Pichardo   New Orleans, Louisiana
 
Last time I went somebody had bolted this. Tough for it to be Trad and rated X with bolts. Jun 1, 2014
Buddy Smith   GA
Those bolts are for Super Grover. Don't get over there thinking that you're on
windows. You'll be disappointed. Just like the person who apparently bailed on the second bolt and left a bail ring on it. Jul 27, 2017
Gabe Parker
Zebulon, GA
Gabe Parker   Zebulon, GA
I have not attempted to climb this yet, but if Shannon rated it "X" I would seriously consider it as such; as he is a bold leader. Dec 28, 2018
Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
  5.8+
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
  5.8+
Shannon never gave this route an X rating. I gave it that years ago when I added the route to Mountain Project, being a new leader and never having led the climb. It's probably not that bad, maybe not even an R. But given the sustained nature of the climbing and the subtlety of protection it could turn very serious if a new leader got on it. Maybe one of these days I'll get off my ass, go lead the thing, and have an informed opinion. Dec 28, 2018